Resawing Wood: Bandsaw Techniques for Woodworkers

Resawing is a specialized sawing process. Woodworkers frequently use resawing. Resawing changes a board. The original board thickness becomes the new board width. Resawing typically uses a bandsaw. The bandsaw cuts the board. The resawing process maximizes lumber yield.

Ever looked at a gorgeous piece of thick lumber and thought, “Man, I wish I could get more out of that?” Well, friend, that’s where resawing comes in! Think of it as the woodworking equivalent of stretching your dollar – but instead of money, we’re talking about that sweet, sweet wood.

Resawing, at its heart, is a fundamental woodworking technique that unlocks a world of possibilities. We’re basically slicing thicker boards into thinner ones, kind of like a lumberjack’s version of slicing bread. Imagine you’ve got a beautiful plank, but it’s just too thick for your project. Resawing lets you create thinner, more manageable pieces. But hold on, it gets even better.

It’s not just about making thinner boards. Resawing also lets you craft your own veneers – those thin, decorative layers that add a touch of elegance to your projects. And if you’re feeling fancy, you can even use resawing to create bookmatched panels, where two resawn pieces are opened up like a book, creating a stunning, symmetrical grain pattern. It’s like magic, I tell ya!

Now, the trusty tools of this trade are usually the band saw and the table saw. The band saw, with its tall cutting capacity, is like the lumberjack of resawing, tackling thicker stock with ease. The table saw, on the other hand, is more like the finesse artist, requiring some special jigs and setups to get the job done.

Mastering resawing isn’t just a cool skill; it’s a game-changer. We’re talking serious material efficiency, turning one board into multiple. Design flexibility, letting you create custom thicknesses for any project. And, perhaps best of all, some sweet, sweet cost savings, because who doesn’t love getting more bang for their buck (or, in this case, board)?

Contents

Choosing Your Weapon: Band Saw vs. Table Saw for Resawing

So, you’re ready to dive into the wonderful world of resawing, huh? Awesome! But before you start ripping (pun intended!), you need to pick your tool of choice. It’s like choosing between a trusty broadsword and a nimble rapier – both can get the job done, but they each have their strengths and weaknesses. In the resawing arena, the two main contenders are the band saw and the table saw. Let’s see how these stack up against each other:

Band Saw Resawing: The Gentle Giant

Think of the band saw as the gentle giant of the woodworking world.

Advantages: Imagine you need to slice a tall piece of lumber. The band saw laughs at the challenge! Its vertical design gives it a massive height advantage, letting you resaw thick stock that would make a table saw weep. Plus, band saws tend to leave a smoother surface behind, meaning less sanding for you (woo-hoo!). And because they use a thinner blade (kerf), you get more usable wood and less sawdust – material efficiency for the win! It also tends to be safer than table saws.
Disadvantages: But our gentle giant isn’t perfect. Band saws can be a bit temperamental. They’re sometimes prone to blade drift – a frustrating tendency for the blade to wander off course. Getting a band saw dialed in just right often requires a patient hand and a bit of tweaking.

Table Saw Resawing: The Familiar Workhorse

Most woodworkers already have a table saw. It’s the familiar, dependable workhorse of the shop.

Advantages: The big selling point here is accessibility. If you’re like most woodworkers, you probably already own a table saw. You know its quirks, you’re comfortable using it (hopefully!), and you probably have a whole collection of jigs and accessories ready to go.
Disadvantages: Table saws have some serious limitations when it comes to resawing. The biggest one? Height capacity. You’re limited by the blade diameter, which means you can only resaw boards that are shorter than the blade’s height above the table. Resawing tall pieces on a table saw also requires specialized jigs to keep things safe and stable – and even then, it can feel a little precarious. Table saws also remove more material when cutting due to a wider blade.

The Verdict: Which Saw Should You Choose?

So, which saw reigns supreme? The truth is, there’s no single “best” answer. However, generally, the band saw is the preferred choice for resawing. Its greater cutting capacity, smoother cuts, and material-saving kerf make it a resawing superstar.

However, don’t write off the table saw just yet! If you’re on a budget, short on space, or only need to resaw thin stock occasionally, a table saw with a good jig can still get the job done. The best choice for you depends on your specific needs, budget, the types of project and the tools that are already taking space in your shop.

Blade Selection: The Heart of a Clean Resaw

Alright, let’s talk blades! You wouldn’t try to carve a turkey with a butter knife, right? Same goes for resawing. The blade is your primary weapon in this woodworking adventure, so choosing wisely is crucial. A dull or inappropriate blade can lead to rough cuts, blade drift, burning, and a whole lot of frustration. Trust me; I’ve been there! So, before you start slicing and dicing, let’s get you armed with the right knowledge.

Band Saw Blades for Resawing

Think of your band saw blade as a tiny, super-efficient wood-eating machine. But like any machine, it needs the right parts to perform its best.

Blade Material: High Carbon Steel vs. Bimetal: High carbon steel blades are the cost-effective option, great for general use and softer woods. But if you’re tackling harder stuff or want a blade that lasts longer, bimetal is the way to go. Bimetal blades have a high-speed steel edge welded to a flexible backing, giving you both durability and flexibility.
Tooth Configuration: Raker Tooth Patterns: Picture this: teeth that alternate their set (left, right, left, right) with a raker tooth (straight). That’s a raker pattern, and it’s a champion at clearing out those wood chips. Less chip buildup means a smoother cut and less heat, which is exactly what you want when resawing.
TPI (Teeth Per Inch): This is where things get interesting! Think of it like this: lower TPI (3-6) is like a hungry monster, taking big bites for thick stock. Higher TPI (6-10) is more refined, perfect for thinner stock where you want a cleaner finish. The trick? Not too many teeth that cause sawdust build up.
Blade Width: Wider is better when it comes to resawing. A blade width of 3/4″ or wider offers better stability and resists that pesky blade drift we all hate. It’s like having a solid foundation under your cut.

Table Saw Blades for Resawing

While the band saw is often the preferred choice, the table saw can still play a role, especially if it’s what you have. You just need to outfit it with the right blade!

Flat-Top Grind (FTG) Blades: These blades are your go-to for ripping and resawing on a table saw. The flat-top teeth are designed for efficient material removal, making them ideal for cutting with the grain. They’re all about power and speed, so you can slice through thicker stock with relative ease.
Thin-Kerf Blades: Resawing already wastes material, but a thin-kerf blade can help reduce that. Less waste, less strain on your saw? It’s a win-win!

Essential Accessories: Your Resawing Sidekicks

Alright, picture this: you’re about to resaw a gorgeous piece of walnut, and things are getting hairy. That’s where our trusty accessories swoop in! These aren’t just extras; they’re essential partners in your quest for resawing perfection and, more importantly, keeping all your fingers intact. Let’s meet the crew.

Featherboards: Keeping Things Pressed and Precise

Think of featherboards as those super-clingy friends who won’t let you stray. Their main gig is to keep your wood snug against the fence and table, ensuring a consistent cut and preventing that heart-stopping moment when the wood decides to kick back (literally).

Why they matter: Featherboards practically eliminate kickback. Kickback happens when the blade catches the wood and throws it back at you.
Placement: The secret sauce is placing them both before and after the blade. This creates a “sandwich” effect, guiding the wood smoothly through the cut.
Types:
- Spring steel: These are durable and offer consistent pressure.
- Shop-made wooden featherboards: A fun project, and you can customize them.
- Magnetic featherboards: Super easy to adjust and move around.

Push Sticks/Pads: Hand-ling with Care

Let’s face it: blades are sharp, and hands are delicate. Push sticks and pads are your personal bodyguards, ensuring your precious digits stay a safe distance from the spinning danger zone.

Purpose: To safely guide the wood past the blade, keeping your hands far, far away.
Types:
- Push sticks: Your go-to for general resawing tasks.
- Push pads: These offer extra grip and control, especially useful for smaller or awkwardly shaped pieces.
Usage: The golden rule: If you’re feeling uneasy about how close your hands are, grab a push stick or pad! There’s no shame in playing it safe. You can also use it for smaller or unstable pieces.

Resawing Jigs: Standing Tall for Vertical Victory

Resawing on a table saw? Now that’s a balancing act! That’s where resawing jigs come in, providing the vertical support your wood needs to stay steady and true. They’re particularly crucial for achieving consistent thickness and preventing those dreaded wobbly cuts.

Purpose: To provide stable vertical support when resawing on a table saw.
Types:
- Tall fences: Attach to your existing fence for added height.
- Adjustable jigs: Allow for precise control over the cut.
- Shop-built solutions: Get creative and build your own! (YouTube is your friend).

Understanding Wood Properties: The Secret Sauce to Resawing Success!

Alright, woodworkers, let’s talk about the heart and soul of resawing – the wood itself! It’s not just about firing up your saw and hoping for the best; understanding your wood’s unique personality is key. We’re diving into grain direction, wood species, and moisture content. Think of it as getting to know your material before you start slicing and dicing.

Grain Direction: Go With the Flow!

Imagine trying to swim upstream against a raging river – that’s what it’s like resawing against the grain. Generally, you want to resaw with the grain – it’s much easier, cleaner, and your saw will thank you. But, sometimes, design calls and you have to go against the flow. Be super aware of potential tear-out, especially with figured woods. A slower feed rate can be your best friend here. Think of it as gently persuading the wood, rather than forcing it.

Wood Species: Know Your Wood!

Not all wood is created equal. Trying to resaw oak like it’s balsa? You’re in for a bad time! Density is the name of the game. Harder woods like maple or ipe require sharper blades, a slower and more deliberate feed rate, and maybe even a little extra elbow grease. Softer woods? Still need respect, but they’re a bit more forgiving. Also, watch out for woods high in resin content, like pine or certain types of cedar. That sticky stuff can gunk up your blade faster than you can say “kerf.” Keep some blade cleaner handy – it’s like mouthwash for your saw!

Moisture Content: Happy Wood, Happy Resawing!

Ever tried to cut a soggy piece of cardboard? Same concept applies to wood. Moisture content is crucial for stability. Wood that’s too wet or too dry is going to warp, twist, and generally misbehave after you resaw it. Make sure your wood is properly dried and acclimated to your shop’s environment. How do you know? Invest in a moisture meter! Aim for that sweet spot of 6-8% for most indoor applications. It’s an investment that saves you headaches (and wood) down the road. Think of it as ensuring your wood is in a Zen-like state of equilibrium before you unleash the saw!

Mastering the Techniques: Feed Rate, Drift Correction, and Blade Tension

So, you’ve got your wood, your saw (band or table, we ain’t judgin’), and a dream of perfectly resawn boards dancing in your head. But hold on there, partner! Before you go full speed ahead, let’s talk about the *secret sauce that separates a smooth resaw from a… well, let’s just say, a less-than-smooth resaw.* We’re diving deep into the core techniques that’ll have you resawing like a seasoned pro. Forget about wavy cuts and frustration, because we’re about to level up your resawing game.

Feed Rate: Finding Your Rhythm

Think of feed rate like the tempo of a song. Too slow, and you’re dragging; too fast, and you’re skipping beats. The impact of an incorrect feed rate is real:

Too Slow: Causes burning, as the blade sits too long in one place, generating heat and leaving those nasty scorch marks.
Too Fast: Leads to blade deflection, where the blade bends and wanders, resulting in a rough, uneven cut.

So, how do you find that optimal speed? Experiment, my friend! Start with a medium pace and adjust based on the wood type and blade. A good rule of thumb is that harder woods and duller blades need a slower feed rate, while softer woods and sharp blades can handle a bit more pep in their step. Don’t forget, consistency is key for achieving uniform thickness!

Drift Correction: Straightening the Path

Ah, drift. The bane of every resawer’s existence. Understanding drift is crucial. It’s that pesky tendency of the blade to wander off a straight line, leaving you with a cut that’s, shall we say, artistically curved. There are a few ways we can address this:

Understanding Drift: First, it is important to note that blade drift is when the blade wanders off a straight line. It is generally caused by blade dullness, improper blade tension or the wood type.
Correcting Drift: Adjust the fence angle or use a guide board to compensate for drift.
Methods: Visual correction or using a calibrated fence.

So how do you wrestle this beast under control? By adjusting the fence angle or using a guide board to compensate. There are a few methods, including:

Visual Correction: This involves observing the blade’s path and making slight adjustments to the fence as needed. It’s a bit like steering a boat – you’re constantly course-correcting to stay on track.
Calibrated Fence: Some fences have built-in adjustments that allow you to fine-tune the angle. This is a more precise method, but it requires careful calibration.

Remember that a little tweak can make a big difference.

Blade Tension: Tighten Up!

Think of your blade like a guitar string – too loose, and it’ll buzz and wobble; too tight, and it’ll snap. Importance of blade tension cannot be stressed enough, as it prevents blade wander and ensures a straight cut. So how do you find that sweet spot?

Adjustment: Use a blade tension gauge or follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Checks: Regularly check blade tension and adjust as needed.

Some saws have a built-in tension gauge, which is super handy. If not, consult your saw’s manual for the recommended tension setting. And most importantly, check that tension regularly, especially after changing blades or running the saw for extended periods. A little maintenance goes a long way in preventing those frustrating blade wander issues.

Applications: Unleashing the Potential of Resawing in Your Woodworking Projects!

Okay, so you’ve got your resawing setup dialed in, blades are sharp, and you’re feeling confident. Now what? This is where the real magic happens! Resawing isn’t just about making thinner boards; it’s about opening up a whole new world of design possibilities. Let’s dive into some of the most exciting applications of this awesome technique.

Veneer Creation: Thin is In!

Ever drooled over those gorgeous, exotic wood veneers but balked at the price tag? Well, resawing is your secret weapon. You can take a piece of that stunning walnut burl you’ve been hoarding and transform it into a stack of beautiful veneers.

Process: The idea is simple: carefully resaw that thicker piece of wood into multiple thin sheets. The goal here is achieving consistent thickness, so focus on a steady feed rate and a super-sharp blade.
Thickness Control: This is crucial! Small variations in thickness can cause headaches later on. Practice makes perfect, so don’t be afraid to run some test pieces.
Substrate: So you’ve got these lovely, delicate veneers…now what? Don’t go sticking them on your grandma’s antique dresser! Use a stable substrate like MDF or plywood. These engineered materials are less prone to warping and will provide a solid foundation for your masterpiece. A good veneer press can also do wonders here!

Bookmatching: Mirror, Mirror on the Wood

Want to add a touch of elegance and symmetry to your next project? Bookmatching is the answer! This technique involves resawing a board and then opening the two halves like a book. The result is a mirrored grain pattern that’s absolutely mesmerizing.

Process: Start with a board that has a particularly interesting grain pattern. Resaw it right down the middle, and then carefully open the two halves. It’s like revealing a hidden secret!
Aesthetics: The key to successful bookmatching is symmetry. Aim for a precise resaw cut to ensure that the grain patterns line up perfectly. This creates a stunning visual effect. Think of it like wood Rorschach test.

Lumber Preparation: Get the Right Size, Every Time

Sometimes, you just can’t find the right size lumber for your project. Maybe you need a thinner piece for a cabinet door or a custom molding. Resawing allows you to create the exact dimensions you need, right in your own shop.

Process: Instead of being limited by the lumberyard’s selection, take a thicker board and resaw it to your desired thickness. This is a game-changer for custom projects.
Efficiency: Resawing can also help you optimize material usage. Instead of tossing out scraps, you can resaw them into smaller pieces for other parts of your project. It’s like recycling, but with wood!

Safety First: Protecting Yourself from Flying Sawdust (and Fingers!)

Alright, let’s talk about the not-so-glamorous but absolutely crucial part of woodworking: safety. Resawing, while incredibly useful, involves power tools and spinning blades. We need to keep all our fingers intact. Think of this as your superhero cape against rogue wood chips and potential mishaps!

Eye Protection: Seeing is Believing (and Avoiding)

You wouldn’t walk into a sandstorm without eye protection, would you? The same principle applies here. Safety glasses or a face shield are non-negotiable. Those little bits of flying debris might seem harmless, but they can seriously mess up your vision. Always choose eyewear that meets ANSI standards – it’s like having a tiny bodyguard for your peepers.

Hearing Protection: Keeping Your Ears Happy

Picture this: the constant whine of a band saw or the shriek of a table saw…all day long. Your ears will be begging for mercy! Earplugs or earmuffs are your best friends here. Opt for hearing protection with a high Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) – it’s like turning down the volume on the world’s loudest concert, but you’ll still be able to think.

Dust Collection: Breathe Easy, Woodworkers!

Wood dust: it gets everywhere! And breathing it in isn’t exactly a recipe for a long and healthy life. Effective dust collection isn’t just about keeping your shop clean (although that’s a nice bonus); it’s about minimizing those nasty airborne particles. Invest in a dust collector or a shop vacuum with a fine-particle filter. Your lungs will thank you.

General Safety Tips: Common Sense is Your Superpower

This is where your common sense kicks in. Always concentrate on the task at hand – no daydreaming about that dovetail joint! Keep your workspace free of clutter; tripping over a pile of lumber is not on the agenda. And ditch the loose clothing and jewelry – they’re just asking to get snagged in a spinning blade. Let’s recap!

Resawing and safety go together, you must remember:

Eye Protection is an absolute MUST.
Take care of your ears and wear earplugs.
Breathing in sawdust is bad – use dust collection.
Stay focused, have a clear workspace, and keep your hands safe!

Troubleshooting: Resawing Rescue – Taming Those Pesky Problems!

Resawing, as awesome as it is, isn’t always smooth sailing. Sometimes, things go a little haywire. Don’t fret! Every woodworker faces these challenges. It’s all part of the learning curve. Let’s dive into some common resawing woes and how to kick them to the curb, shall we?

Blade Drift: When Your Saw Has a Mind of Its Own

Ah, blade drift. The bane of many a woodworker’s existence. It’s that annoying tendency for the blade to wander off course, leaving you with a cut that’s less straight line and more drunken noodle.

The Culprits: What causes this rebellious behavior? Usually, it boils down to a dull blade (think of it as a tired marathon runner), improper blade tension (too loose, and it’s like a rubber band), or uneven feed pressure (pushing harder on one side than the other).
The Fixes: Time to wrangle that drifting blade back into submission! First, give that blade a good sharpening or, if it’s really seen better days, replace it entirely. Next, crank up the blade tension – consult your saw’s manual for the sweet spot. A featherboard can be your best friend here, ensuring consistent pressure against the fence. And remember, smooth and steady wins the race – apply even pressure as you feed the wood through the saw.

Burning: No, You’re Not Making Toast!

Seeing burn marks on your resawn wood? That’s not exactly the look we’re going for. Burning happens when the blade creates excessive friction, essentially scorching the wood.

The Usual Suspects: Slow feed rates are a common culprit – lingering too long in one spot gives the blade too much time to heat up. A dull blade is another prime offender, forcing it to work harder and generate more friction. And if you’re working with resinous woods like pine, the sap can build up on the blade, exacerbating the problem.
Firefighting Solutions: Speed things up! A faster, more confident feed rate will help prevent burning. Of course, a sharp blade is non-negotiable. For those sticky resinous woods, keep a bottle of blade cleaner handy. And ease up on the downward pressure; let the blade do the work.

Wavy Cuts: Riding the Roller Coaster…of Bad Cuts

Wavy cuts are another source of frustration in resawing. Instead of a smooth, flat surface, you end up with something that resembles a miniature roller coaster.

The Perpetrators: Inadequate blade tension is often to blame – a loose blade is like a wobbly tightrope walker. Blade flutter (vibrations in the blade) can also contribute to wavy cuts. And, like with burning, an excessive feed rate can cause the blade to deflect and create an uneven surface.
Straightening Things Out: Tighten that blade tension! If the blade is still wobbly, consider using a wider blade for increased stability. Slow down your feed rate – sometimes, patience is a virtue. And finally, double-check that your blade guides are properly adjusted. These guides help support the blade and minimize flutter.

So, there you have it! Resawing might sound intimidating at first, but with a little practice, you’ll be turning thick boards into thinner masterpieces in no time. Happy woodworking!