Fixed Base Router: Uses, Stability & Joinery

A fixed base wood router is a versatile woodworking tool. Woodworkers use the fixed base wood router for different tasks. Edge profiling is a common application for the fixed base wood router. A fixed base wood router has a stationary base. The stationary base makes it stable. Stability makes it suitable for detailed work. Cabinet making often requires detailed work. Woodworkers also use this tool for creating precise dados. Precise dados are essential for strong joints. Joinery is a critical aspect of woodworking. This router type is often chosen for its simplicity. Simplicity makes it easy to set up and control.

Ah, the fixed base wood router—the unsung hero of the woodworking world! It might not have the flashy plunge action of its cousin, but when it comes to repeatable accuracy and unwavering control, this tool is in a league of its own. Think of it as the steadfast friend who always keeps you on the straight and narrow (literally!). Its primary role in woodworking is to shape, trim, and cut wood with incredible precision, making it an indispensable tool for both hobbyists and professionals alike.

Fixed base routers shine where consistency is key. Unlike plunge routers, which can start a cut in the middle of a workpiece, fixed base routers are designed to work from the edge, offering superior stability and reducing the risk of errors. This makes them perfect for edge profiling, creating grooves, and template routing – tasks where even a slight wobble can spell disaster. Imagine trying to create a delicate ogee edge on a tabletop with a tool that’s constantly trying to dive into the wood!

So, where does this trusty tool truly excel? Common applications include:

  • Edge profiling: Creating decorative edges on tables, shelves, and moldings.
  • Joinery: Cutting precise rabbets and dados for strong, clean joints.
  • Template routing: Duplicating intricate designs with ease and accuracy.
  • Laminate trimming: Achieving perfectly flush edges on countertops and other laminated surfaces.

Whether you’re crafting elegant furniture, installing custom trim, or simply adding a professional touch to your projects, the fixed base router is your reliable partner in precision. It’s the tool that turns good woodworking into great woodworking, one perfectly routed edge at a time.

Contents

Anatomy of a Fixed Base Router: Cracking the Code to Router Power!

Okay, folks, let’s get under the hood of our trusty fixed base router. Think of it as understanding the inner workings of your favorite car – knowing what each part does can seriously up your woodworking game. Forget just pushing buttons; let’s learn about what’s really going on!

The Heart of the Beast: The Router Motor

  • Horsepower (HP) is the muscle – it tells you how much oomph the router has. More HP means you can tackle harder woods and bigger bits without bogging down. Think routing a delicate edge versus hogging out a massive mortise! ***Revolutions Per Minute*** (RPM) is the speed. Higher RPMs are generally better for cleaner cuts in softer materials, while you might want to dial it down for hardwoods to prevent burning. Finding that sweet spot is key!

The Foundation: The Router Base

  • The base is your router’s platform. *Cast aluminum bases* are the gold standard – they’re tough, flat, and offer excellent stability. *Plastic bases* are lighter and cheaper but can lack the same level of precision. Look for features like sub-bases – especially if you’re doing template routing. These let you attach guides and customize the base for specific tasks.

Gripping Power: The Collet

  • The collet is what holds your router bit in place. They come in different sizes (usually ¼” or ½”), and using the correct size is crucial. Trying to jam a ½” shank bit into a ¼” collet is a recipe for disaster (and potentially a trip to the ER!). Always inspect your collet for *signs of wear* like cracks or deformation. A worn collet can lead to bit slippage and dangerous situations.

The Cutting Edge: Router Bits

  • Router bits are where the magic happens! *High-speed steel (HSS) bits* are cheaper but dull quickly. *Carbide bits* are more expensive but stay sharp much longer, especially when working with hardwoods or abrasive materials like MDF. They come in all shapes and sizes, as you’ll see.

    Safety Tip: Always match the bit’s shank size (the part that goes into the collet) to your router’s collet size. And always inspect bits for damage before use. A dull or damaged bit is a hazard!

Power On: The On/Off Switch

  • The on/off switch seems simple, but it’s your primary control. *Toggle switches* are common, but *paddle switches* are often preferred for safety – they allow you to quickly shut off the router with a simple push. Look for safety lock features to prevent accidental starts, especially when changing bits.

The Lifeline: The Power Cord

  • The power cord is your router’s source of juice. Consider the *length* – too short, and you’ll be wrestling with extension cords. Check the gauge (thickness) – a thicker gauge is better for longer runs to prevent voltage drop. Corded routers offer consistent power, while cordless routers provide freedom of movement (but require battery management). And please, coil your cords neatly for storage!

Dialing it In: The Depth Adjustment Mechanism

  • The depth adjustment mechanism lets you control how deep the bit cuts. Some routers have *fine-tuning adjustments* for incredibly precise cuts, while others offer *coarse adjustments* for quicker changes. The key is ease of use and accuracy. A smooth, responsive mechanism will save you a ton of frustration.

Staying Put: The Locking Mechanism

  • The locking mechanism secures your depth setting. This is super important because you don’t want the bit depth to change mid-cut. Make sure it’s robust and easy to engage. Bit drift is a pain, but worse, it can ruin your workpiece.

The Router Bit Arsenal: A Guide to Types and Applications

Alright, let’s talk router bits! Think of these little guys as the swiss army knives of your wood router. You wouldn’t try to eat soup with a fork, right? Same goes for routing! Using the right bit for the right job is crucial for clean cuts, efficient work, and, most importantly, keeping all your fingers intact. So, let’s dive into the wonderful world of router bit types, each with its own special superpower.

Straight Bits: The Workhorses

Need to cut a groove? A dado? Just hog out some material? Straight bits are your go-to. These are the basic but mighty bits you’ll use all the time. They come in various diameters, so pick the one that fits your needs. Think of them as the reliable pickup truck in your woodworking fleet.

Roundover Bits: Smooth Operator

Want to soften those sharp edges and give your project a professional, finished look? Grab a roundover bit. These bits create a rounded edge of varying radii. A smaller radius gives a subtle touch, while a larger one creates a bolder, more pronounced curve. It’s like adding that perfect scoop of ice cream on top of your pie.

Chamfer Bits: Angle Experts

Chamfer bits create angled edges, perfect for decorative accents or easing sharp corners. They come in different angles, like 45-degree or 30-degree, allowing you to create a variety of beveled looks. Chamfers are the cool sunglasses that give your project extra flair.

Flush Trim Bits: The Precision Clean-Up Crew

These bits are essential for template routing. With a bearing that rides along the edge of your template, flush trim bits cut your workpiece exactly to the shape of the template. These bits come in both shank mounted bearing and tip mounted bearing, each having benefits and drawbacks. Think of these as the laser-guided scissors that trim everything perfectly.

Ogee Bits: The Fancy Pants

Ready to get fancy? Ogee bits create elegant, decorative edge profiles. These bits combine a roundover and a cove cut for a classic, sophisticated look. Using these bits takes some practice, so start slow and take light passes. An ogee bit is the tuxedo of edge profiles.

Dovetail Bits: Joinery Masters

For strong and beautiful joinery, you’ll need a dovetail bit. These bits create the interlocking shapes for dovetail joints, a hallmark of quality craftsmanship. Choosing the right angle and size is crucial for a tight, secure fit. Think of these as the secret handshake of woodworking.

Rabbeting Bits: The Edge Detailers

Rabbeting bits cut a recess along the edge of your workpiece, creating a shoulder for joinery or a decorative detail. These bits often come with interchangeable bearings, allowing you to adjust the depth of the rabbet. A rabbeting bit is like the perfect picture frame for your project.

Specialty Bits: The Wild Cards

Beyond the basics, there’s a whole world of specialty bits for specific tasks. Panel raising bits create the raised panels for cabinet doors. Beading bits add a decorative beaded edge. The possibilities are endless! These bits are like the special effects that take your project to the next level.

Material Matters: Taming the Timber (and More!) with Your Fixed Base Router

So, you’ve got your fixed base router humming, ready to rumble. But hold your horses (or horsepower, in this case)! Not all materials are created equal in the eyes of a spinning router bit. Let’s break down what you can confidently feed into your router and what might result in a sawdusty disaster (or worse!).

Wood: The Router’s Bread and Butter (Mostly)

  • Hardwood & Softwood: Wood and routers are like peanut butter and jelly…most of the time. But even with wood, you’ve gotta be savvy. Species matter. Routing a buttery-smooth piece of walnut is a dream, while some gnarly, knot-filled pine can be a tear-out nightmare. Grain direction is also your arch-nemesis. Always route with the grain to avoid splintering. And speaking of tear-out, slow and steady wins the race. Take shallow passes, use sharp bits, and consider a backer board to support the exit point of your cut.

Laminates: Handle with Care (and Sharp Bits)

  • Laminates: Ah, laminates – the veneer that makes cheap furniture look expensive. Routing laminates is doable, but it’s a delicate dance. The key is sharp bits. Dull bits will cause chipping and tear-out that’s harder to fix than your uncle’s toupee. Use a spiral upcut bit for the best results, as it pulls the material upwards and away from the substrate. Score the cut line with a utility knife before routing to minimize chipping.

Composites (MDF, Plywood): The Dusty Frontier

  • Composites (MDF, Plywood): MDF and plywood are workhorses in the woodworking world, but routing them can be a dusty affair. Invest in a good dust collection system unless you want to resemble a powdered donut. MDF routes relatively cleanly, but it’s abrasive, so use carbide-tipped bits. Plywood can be tricky due to its layered construction. Again, sharp bits are crucial, and consider using a compression bit, which combines upcut and downcut flutes to prevent tear-out on both surfaces.

Plastics: Tread Carefully, My Friend

  • Plastics: Routing plastics is a whole different ball game. The biggest concern is melting. Plastic generates heat quickly, and if it gets too hot, it’ll melt, gum up your bit, and create a sticky mess. Speed control is essential. Reduce your router’s RPM significantly. Start with a slow speed and increase it gradually until you achieve a clean cut. Use bits designed for plastics (they have a steeper cutting angle) and consider lubricating the bit with WD-40 to reduce friction. And always wear eye protection – plastic shards are nasty!

Mastering Router Techniques: Essential Cuts and Methods

  • Edge Routing:

    • Understanding the Basics: Think of edge routing as giving your wood a fancy haircut! It’s all about shaping the edges of your workpiece. You’ll typically use an edge guide for this.
    • Edge Guide: How to attach it properly. Mention types (straight vs. adjustable).
    • Climb Cutting vs. Conventional Cutting:
      • Climb Cutting: What it is (feeding the router in the opposite direction of the bit’s rotation), its advantages (smoother cut in some cases), and significant dangers (router pulling away, loss of control, potential for kickback). Emphasize it should only be used with extreme caution and when the setup is very secure. It’s like wrestling a bear – impressive, but potentially disastrous if you’re not careful!
      • Conventional Cutting: What it is (feeding the router in the same direction as the bit’s rotation), why it’s safer, and when to use it. Stress that this is the recommended method for most situations. Think of it as a gentle stroll in the park compared to bear wrestling.
    • Technique: Proper stance, smooth and controlled movements, keeping the router base flush with the edge.

  • Groove Cutting:

    • Straight-Line Accuracy: The secret is a good guide (straight edge clamped to the workpiece) and a steady hand.
    • Achieving Consistent Depth: Set the router depth carefully and check frequently.
    • Jigs for Groove Cutting: Explain the benefits of using jigs for repeatable and precise groove cuts. Simple shop-made jigs (a board with a cutout) to more advanced adjustable jigs.
    • Routing in Multiple Passes: For deeper grooves, remove material in several shallow passes to reduce strain on the router and prevent tear-out. Like eating a sandwich one bite at a time, instead of trying to swallow it whole!

  • Dado Cutting:

    • What’s a Dado?: A rectangular groove cut across the grain of the wood. Used for joinery in shelves, cabinets, and drawers.
    • Width and Depth Control: Precisely measuring and marking the dado location is crucial.
    • Using a Router Table: Explain how a router table simplifies dado cutting; using the fence for accurate placement.
    • Handheld Router with a Guide: Using a straight edge clamped to the workpiece as a guide.
    • Mortising Jig: Explain how to use for more accurate cuts

  • Pattern Routing:

    • The Magic of Templates: Creating identical shapes repeatedly is a breeze with pattern routing.
    • Template Materials: MDF, plywood, acrylic. Pros and cons of each.
    • Attaching the Template: Double-sided tape, clamps, screws.
    • Flush Trim Bits: The key to pattern routing; explain the pilot bearing and how it follows the template edge.
    • Routing Technique: Smooth, consistent pressure against the template. Consider making multiple passes.
    • Example Applications: Duplicating furniture parts, creating decorative shapes. Imagine making a whole army of identical wooden ducks!

  • Joinery (Mortise & Tenon, Dovetails):

    • Router for Joinery: Routers can create strong and precise joints.
    • Mortise & Tenon:
      • Creating Mortises: Using a straight bit and a jig to control the mortise size and location. Plunge router is more commonly used, but a fixed base can be used in conjunction with a mortising jig.
      • Creating Tenons: Using a router table or a handheld router with a fence to shape the tenon.
    • Dovetails:
      • Using a Dovetail Jig: Essential for creating accurate dovetails with a router. Different jig types (half-blind, through dovetails).
      • Router Bit Selection: Dovetail bits with specific angles and sizes.
      • Technique: Following the jig instructions carefully, making multiple passes.
      • Half-Blind Dovetail Jig: Explain how they are used to create perfect joints.
    • Practice Makes Perfect: Joinery takes skill; practice on scrap wood first.

Accessorize for Success: Level Up Your Routing Game!

Alright, you’ve got your fixed base router, you’re comfortable with the basics, and you’re itching to do more. That’s where accessories come in, my friend. Think of them as power-ups for your router, turning it from a simple cutting tool into a precision crafting powerhouse. Let’s dive into some must-have accessories that’ll seriously up your woodworking game.

Edge Guide: Routing Like a Pro (Without the Wobbly Lines)

Ever tried to run a router perfectly straight along an edge? It’s trickier than it looks! That’s where an edge guide saves the day. These handy contraptions attach to your router and provide a stable, consistent reference against the edge of your workpiece.

  • Types: You’ve got your basic straight edge guides, perfect for… well, straight edges. Then there are adjustable edge guides, which let you dial in the exact distance between the bit and the edge, giving you ultimate control.
  • Attaching and Using: Most edge guides attach easily with screws or clamps. The key is to make sure it’s securely fastened and running parallel to the desired cut. Practice a few passes on scrap wood before you go live on your project!

Circle Cutting Jig: Round and Round We Go!

Want to cut perfect circles or graceful arcs? A circle cutting jig is your new best friend. This clever tool lets you pivot your router around a central point, creating flawless curves every time.

  • Pivot Point and Radius Adjustment: The beauty of these jigs is the adjustability. You can set the pivot point to create circles of any size. Just measure from the pivot to the outside edge of the bit for your radius, and you’re good to go.

Router Table: Turning Your Router Upside Down (In a Good Way)

A router table is a game-changer. It essentially turns your handheld router into a stationary shaper, giving you more stability, control, and safety. Think of it as giving your router a permanent workshop.

  • Benefits of an Inverted Setup: With the router mounted upside down, you can easily feed your workpiece past the bit, keeping both hands free to control the cut. It’s also easier to use larger bits and perform complex shaping operations.
  • Fence Types: Router tables typically have a fence to guide your work. You’ll find straight fences for basic edge routing and split fences, which allow for more advanced techniques like jointing.
  • Safety Features: Good router tables come with built-in safety features like feather boards to keep your workpiece pressed against the fence and bit guards to protect your hands.

Router Fence: The Key to Precision

The fence is your guiding star on the router table. It ensures straight, accurate cuts and helps you achieve consistent results.

  • Straight Fence vs. Split Fence: We touched on this earlier, but it’s worth emphasizing. Straight fences are great for simple edge work, while split fences offer more flexibility for shaping and jointing.
  • Adjusting for Different Bit Sizes: The fence needs to be adjusted based on the diameter of the router bit you’re using. This ensures the bit is properly exposed and the fence is providing the correct support.
  • Dust Collection Integration: Many router fences have a dust port that connects to your dust collection system, keeping your workspace clean and your lungs happy.

Clamps: Holding It All Together

Don’t underestimate the power of a good clamp! Clamps are essential for securing your workpiece to your workbench or router table, preventing it from shifting during the cut.

  • Workpiece Security: A moving workpiece is a recipe for disaster. Make sure everything is securely clamped before you turn on the router.
  • Types of Clamps: You’ve got your bar clamps, pipe clamps, C-clamps, and toggle clamps, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Choose the right clamp for the job.
  • Proper Placement: Place your clamps strategically to avoid interfering with the router’s path and to provide maximum support for the workpiece.

Dust Collection: Breathe Easy, Route Clean

Routing can create a lot of dust, which is not only annoying but also hazardous to your health. Dust collection is a must-have for any serious router user.

  • Hooking Up Your Router: Many routers have a dust port that connects directly to a vacuum or dust collector.
  • Options for Handheld and Table Routing: For handheld routing, you can use a small shop vacuum with a hose adapter. For router table routing, a dedicated dust collector with a larger hose is recommended.

Safety First: Protecting Yourself from Router Hazards

Alright, let’s talk about the not-so-glamorous but super important stuff: safety. I know, I know, it’s not as exciting as carving intricate designs, but trust me, keeping all your fingers and eardrums intact is a major win in the long run. Think of safety gear as your woodworking superhero suit!

Seeing is Believing: Safety Glasses

First up, your eyes. Imagine a tiny wood chip flying at your eyeball at warp speed – not a fun thought, right? That’s where safety glasses come in. Make sure they’re rated for impact resistance (look for that ANSI rating – it’s like a safety seal of approval). Get a pair that fits snugly – no one wants glasses sliding down their nose mid-cut. It’s not a fashion show, so prioritize protection over style.

Breathe Easy: Dust Mask/Respirator

Next, let’s protect those lungs. Wood dust might seem harmless, but over time, it can cause some serious problems. A simple dust mask is better than nothing for quick jobs, but for extended routing or when working with MDF, a respirator is your best bet. Respirators come with different filter ratings (N95, P100, etc.), so do a little research to find one that filters out the nasties you’re most likely to encounter. A good fit is crucial – make sure it seals properly around your nose and mouth. You want to filter the air, not just wear a decoration!

Silence is Golden: Hearing Protection

Routers can be LOUD. Seriously loud. Prolonged exposure to that noise can damage your hearing, and trust me, tinnitus is not a pleasant soundtrack to your woodworking projects. Hearing protection is a must. You’ve got options: earplugs or earmuffs. Check the Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) – the higher the number, the more sound is blocked. Earmuffs are often more comfortable for long periods, but earplugs are convenient and portable.

The Golden Rules: Safe Work Practices

Okay, gear check complete! Now, let’s talk about safe work practices. This is where common sense comes into play (but sometimes we all need a reminder!).

  • Secure that workpiece! Clamps are your friends. Make sure whatever you’re routing isn’t going to wobble or shift on you.
  • Hand placement is key. Keep your hands well away from the router bit.
  • Avoid climb cutting like the plague. It’s when the bit tries to pull itself along the wood, leading to loss of control. It’s dangerous and unpredictable, just don’t do it.
  • Never force the router. Let the bit do the work. If you’re pushing too hard, you risk burning the wood or, even worse, losing control.
  • Take breaks. Routing for hours on end can lead to fatigue, and fatigue leads to mistakes.
  • Unplug when adjusting. Before changing the bit, unplug the router. ALWAYS.

Remember, safety isn’t just a set of rules, it’s a mindset. Be aware of your surroundings, pay attention to what you’re doing, and don’t be afraid to stop and reassess if something feels off. A little caution can save you a whole lot of trouble (and maybe a trip to the emergency room!).

Showcase: Creative Applications of Fixed Base Routers

Okay, so you’ve got your fixed base router, you’ve mastered the safety stuff (good!), and you’re itching to put this thing to work, right? Let’s ditch the theory for a sec and dive into the fun part: seeing what this tool can actually do. Prepare to be inspired!

Sign Making: From Blank Slate to Brag-Worthy

Ever wanted a custom sign for your workshop, garden, or maybe even to finally label that mysterious jar in the fridge? A fixed base router is your secret weapon. We’re talking about carving letters, logos, and those quirky little decorative swirls that make a sign truly yours. Use templates for precise lettering or get adventurous with freehand routing if you’re feeling artsy. I love the idea of creating rustic wooden signs with carved-out lettering. They make amazing gifts.

Cabinetry: Elevate Your Storage Game

Okay, cabinetry can sound intimidating, but a fixed base router makes it way more accessible. Think about crafting those elegant raised panel doors that scream “high-end,” even if you built them yourself. Or, how about adding some sophisticated edge profiles to your cabinet frames? And when it comes to the essential joinery, a router can help you create rock-solid connections for cabinets that’ll last a lifetime. There is nothing like the feeling of accomplishment of having built your own cabinetry.

Furniture Making: Where Form Meets Function

Ready to build your dream coffee table or finally get around to fixing that wobbly chair? A fixed base router opens up a world of possibilities in furniture making. You can use it to shape edges for a smooth, comfortable feel, add decorative details that give your pieces a unique touch, and, of course, create the strong and reliable joinery that’s essential for any piece of furniture worth its salt. Plus, you’ll save a fortune by not buying the same piece in stores!

DIY Home Improvement: Fixer-Upper Hero

From little touch-ups to major overhauls, a fixed base router can be your go-to tool for DIY home improvement. Installing door hinges? Easy peasy with a router and a template. Need to create custom trim to match your existing molding? No problem! Router to the rescue! Even repairing damaged wood becomes a breeze when you can precisely remove and replace sections with your trusty router. DIY just got a whole lot more doable.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting: Keeping Your Router Running Smoothly

Let’s face it, even the best tools need a little TLC now and then. Think of your fixed base router like your car—you wouldn’t drive it for years without an oil change, right? Same goes for your router. A little maintenance goes a long way in keeping it humming happily and spitting out perfect cuts.

The Importance of a Clean Machine

Dust is the enemy! Seriously, it gets everywhere. After each routing session, grab a brush (an old toothbrush works great!) and give your router a good once-over. Pay special attention to the motor vents, the base, and especially the collet. A dirty collet can lead to bit slippage, which is not only frustrating but also potentially dangerous.

  • Collet Cleaning: Remove the bit completely and use a specialized collet cleaning brush or a clean, dry cloth to wipe away any accumulated dust or resin. Don’t use any solvents or lubricants inside the collet, as this can affect its grip.
  • Lubricating Moving Parts: Refer to your router’s manual for specific recommendations on lubrication. Generally, a drop or two of light machine oil on the depth adjustment threads and any other moving parts can keep things smooth. But, remember, less is more!

Bit Changes: A Quick Guide to Avoiding Disaster

Changing bits might seem simple, but there’s a right way and a wrong way to do it. The most common mistake? Overtightening the collet nut. This can damage the collet and make it difficult to remove bits later on.

  • The Right Way: Use two wrenches—one to hold the spindle and the other to tighten the collet nut. Tighten it snugly, but don’t go full gorilla on it. You’ll know it’s tight enough when the bit feels secure.
  • Inspecting Your Bits: Always check your router bits for signs of wear and tear before each use. Look for chipped edges, dullness, or any other damage. A dull or damaged bit can cause tear-out, burning, and even kickback. If a bit looks questionable, replace it.

Cord Care: Don’t Get Zapped!

Your router’s power cord is its lifeline. A damaged cord is a serious safety hazard.

  • Regular Inspection: Before each use, inspect the entire length of the cord for any frays, cuts, or exposed wires. If you find any damage, do not use the router. Get the cord repaired or replaced by a qualified electrician.
  • Proper Storage: Don’t just wad up the cord and throw it in a drawer. That’s a recipe for kinks and damage. Instead, coil the cord neatly and secure it with a Velcro strap or zip tie.

Troubleshooting Common Router Issues

Okay, so things aren’t going as planned? Here are some common problems and how to tackle them:

  • Motor Not Starting: First, check that the router is plugged in (duh!). Next, check the on/off switch to ensure it’s fully engaged. If that doesn’t work, the motor might be overheating. Let it cool down for a while and try again. If it still doesn’t start, it’s time to consult a professional.
  • Excessive Vibration: This could be caused by several things: a loose bit, a bent spindle, or an unbalanced router bit. Check all of these things and correct any problems you find. If the vibration persists, the router might need to be serviced.
  • Bit Slippage: As mentioned earlier, a dirty collet is often the culprit. Clean the collet thoroughly. Also, make sure you’re using the correct collet size for your router bit.
  • Burning the Wood: Burning is usually caused by using a dull bit, feeding the router too slowly, or trying to remove too much material in a single pass. Use a sharp bit, increase your feed rate, and take multiple light passes instead of one heavy pass. Ensure that you are using the correct router RPM with your router bit.

By following these simple maintenance and troubleshooting tips, you can keep your fixed base router running smoothly for years to come. And a happy router means happy woodworking!

So, whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, a fixed base router could be your next best friend in the workshop. They’re simple, reliable, and ready to tackle a ton of projects. Give one a try and see what you can create!

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