Dissolving Contact Cement: Methods & Safety

Contact cement is a robust adhesive and it requires effective methods to dissolve it, particularly when dealing with unwanted residue or mistakes. Acetone is a potent solvent and it serves as a primary option to dissolve contact cement through direct application. Proper ventilation is crucial during the process because solvents often release fumes. Personal protective equipment (PPE) should be used to ensure safety from the harmful effects of the dissolving agents.

Contents

What is Contact Cement & Why Bother Removing It?

Ever glued something together and thought, “Wow, that’s never coming apart?” Chances are, you’ve met contact cement. This stuff is like the superhero of adhesives—super strong, super reliable, and super permanent, when applied and used correctly. From holding down laminate flooring to keeping your favorite shoes from falling apart, it’s the unsung hero of countless projects.

But here’s the rub: sometimes, things go wrong. Maybe the bond failed (we’ve all been there!), or perhaps you’re looking to refinish that old tabletop. That super-strong bond becomes a super-annoying obstacle. Getting rid of old contact cement isn’t just about tidying up; it’s about setting the stage for a successful future.

The Perils of Poor Contact Cement Removal

Now, you might be tempted to just grab a screwdriver and start hacking away. Resist that urge! Improper removal can lead to a whole host of problems:

Substrate damage: Gouges, scratches, and irreversible harm to the material underneath. Ouch!
Health hazards: Some aggressive removal methods can release nasty chemicals or create harmful dust. Double ouch!

Think of it like surgery—you want to remove the problem without causing further harm. That’s why knowing the right way to dissolve contact cement is essential.

The Science of Solvents: Unlocking the Chemistry Behind Contact Cement Removal

Alright, let’s dive into the magical world of solvents! Ever wondered how these seemingly simple liquids can make stubborn contact cement vanish? It’s not magic; it’s science! Think of solvents as tiny, tireless workers, ready to break down the gluey mess at a molecular level.

What Exactly Is a Solvent?

Imagine making a delicious cup of coffee. You add sugar, right? And what happens? The sugar disappears! Well, it doesn’t actually disappear, it dissolves. Water, in this case, is the solvent. A solvent is simply a substance – usually a liquid – that can dissolve other substances. So, put simply, a solvent is a dissolver. Solvents do this by surrounding the substance and dispersing its molecules, creating a homogenous solution.

How Solvents Attack Contact Cement: A Chemical Love Story (Sort Of)

Now, let’s zoom in on contact cement and see how solvents wreak havoc (in a good way!). Contact cement, like many adhesives, is made up of long chains of molecules called polymers. These polymers are all tangled together, creating a strong, interconnected network that gives contact cement its adhesive properties.

So, how do solvents break down these chains? Think of it like this: the solvent molecules wedge themselves between the polymer chains, disrupting the attractive forces that hold them together. This weakens the overall structure of the contact cement. A key concept here is “like dissolves like.” This means that solvents with similar chemical properties to the contact cement will be more effective at dissolving it. Polarity plays a big role in this. Polar solvents are better at dissolving polar substances, while non-polar solvents are better at dissolving non-polar substances. Contact cement typically has non-polar characteristics, requiring non-polar solvents to breakdown.

Softening vs. Dissolving: Know the Difference

Here’s a crucial distinction: softening is NOT the same as dissolving. When a solvent softens contact cement, it makes it pliable and easier to scrape off, but the polymer chains are still largely intact. When a solvent dissolves contact cement, it breaks those polymer chains down into smaller pieces, turning the cement into a liquid or slurry. The goal is dissolving, which allows you to wipe away the residue completely, rather than just mushing it around!

Factors Affecting Solvent Power: Give It Some Time!

Finally, remember that a solvent’s effectiveness isn’t always a given. Several factors can influence how well it works:

Temperature: Warmer temperatures generally speed up the dissolving process.
Concentration: A pure, undiluted solvent will usually work faster than a diluted one.
Dwell Time: This is crucial! You need to give the solvent enough time to penetrate and break down the contact cement. Patience is key here, folks!

Choosing the Right Solvent: A Guide to Common Options

Okay, so you’ve bravely decided to tackle that stubborn contact cement. Good on ya! But before you go all in, you gotta arm yourself with the right dissolving agent. Think of it like picking the right tool for the job – a sledgehammer isn’t exactly ideal for hanging a picture, right? The same goes for solvents. Here’s a rundown of some common contenders in the contact cement dissolving game, along with their quirks, strengths, and, most importantly, safety tips. Because nobody wants to end up with more problems than they started with!

The Solvent Lineup: Your Chemical Avengers (and Sidekicks)

Acetone: The Speedy Gonzalez. This stuff evaporates fast. It’s great for small areas where you need a quick clean-up. However, beware: it can be a bit of a diva and damage certain plastics. So, test it out first, like a secret agent testing a new gadget.
Naphtha (VM&P): The Gentle Giant. Naphtha takes its sweet time evaporating, making it less aggressive than acetone. This makes it a solid choice for larger areas and delicate surfaces. Think of it as the dependable friend you can always count on.
Toluene: The Heavy Hitter (Handle with Extreme Care!). Now we’re talking serious dissolving power. Toluene is strong, but it’s also toxic and flammable. We’re talking EXTREME caution. Excellent ventilation is not optional; it’s mandatory. If you’re not completely comfortable with handling hazardous materials, step away and call a professional. Seriously. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
Xylene: Toluene’s Not-So-Identical Twin. Similar to toluene in both power and risks. All the same warnings apply. Think of them as a dynamic duo of danger, but only if you don’t respect them.
Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK): The Pro-Level Performer. This is the solvent equivalent of calling in the experts. MEK is a very strong solvent, highly effective, but also highly hazardous. This isn’t a DIY solvent unless you’re a professional with all the safety measures in place. Leave this one to those who know what they’re doing.
Lacquer Thinner: The Mystery Box. Lacquer thinner is a bit of a wildcard because its composition can vary. Always, and I mean always, check the label to see what solvents are actually in there. Use with caution, and treat it like you would any other potentially hazardous solvent.
Adhesive Remover: The Pre-Mixed Solution. Often a blend of solvents, adhesive removers are usually less aggressive. They’re a good starting point if you’re not sure what to use. But, and this is important, test it on an inconspicuous area first. You don’t want to find out the hard way that it reacts poorly with your surface.

The Fine Print: Properties, Applications, and Safety

For each of these solvents, it’s crucial to consider a few key factors:

Evaporation Rate: How quickly does it disappear?
Flammability: Does it go boom easily?
Strength: How powerful is it at dissolving stuff?
Suitable Applications and Limitations: What’s it good for, and what should you avoid?
Specific Safety Precautions: What do you need to do to protect yourself? (Ventilation, PPE, etc.)

Read the SDS! Your Solvent’s Biography

Finally, and I cannot stress this enough, read the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for each solvent. This document contains a wealth of information about the solvent’s properties, hazards, and safe handling procedures. It’s like the solvent’s biography, and it’s essential reading before you start working with it.

Choosing the right solvent might seem daunting, but with a little knowledge and a healthy dose of caution, you’ll be well on your way to conquering that contact cement!

Understanding Your Substrate: Matching Solvents to Materials

Okay, folks, let’s get real. You’ve decided to wage war on that stubborn contact cement. But before you grab the strongest solvent you can find, hold your horses! Imagine using a sledgehammer to hang a picture – overkill, right? The same principle applies here. Your choice of solvent is hugely dependent on what’s underneath that adhesive. You wouldn’t want to win the battle against the cement only to discover you’ve nuked the surface beneath!

Think of it like this: every material has its kryptonite. What works wonders on metal might turn your beautiful wood finish into a gooey mess. That’s why understanding your substrate – the material you’re trying to clean – is mission critical. This isn’t a one-size-fits-all situation. So, let’s dive into some common materials and the solvents they tend to play nicely with.

Common Substrates and Solvent Selection

Wood: Ah, wood – the classic. For most wood surfaces, naphtha is your friend. It’s generally a safe bet, as it’s less aggressive than other solvents. However, a word of caution: avoid anything too harsh. Strong solvents can strip finishes, warp the wood, or even dissolve certain types of wood filler. A gentle approach is always best.

Metal: Metal’s a bit tougher, but it’s not invincible. Acetone or naphtha can often do the trick, but always test first! Some solvents can cause corrosion, especially on certain alloys. If you’re dealing with a painted metal surface, be extra careful – you don’t want to remove the paint along with the adhesive.

Laminate: Laminate can be tricky. It’s basically a thin layer of decorative material glued to a substrate, and strong solvents can delaminate that layer. Your best bet is a mild adhesive remover, and use it sparingly. Patience is key here.

Veneer: Uh oh, veneer. This is the danger zone. Veneer is extremely thin and delicate. Too much solvent, and it’ll soak right through, causing the veneer to swell, bubble, or even detach. Use minimal solvent, work quickly, and dab – don’t saturate! Consider a very, very gentle adhesive remover specifically designed for delicate surfaces.

Plastic: Red alert! Many solvents will dissolve or damage plastic. It’s a gamble. Always, always, always test in an inconspicuous area first! If you see any signs of melting, clouding, or softening, stop immediately. Sometimes, you’re better off trying a mechanical removal method (like carefully scraping) or simply avoiding solvents altogether.

Rubber: Similar to plastic, rubber can react unpredictably to solvents. Test a small, hidden area first. Some solvents might cause the rubber to swell, degrade, or become sticky.

Leather: Leather is another material that demands a gentle touch. Specialized leather cleaners are your safest bet. If you must use a solvent, opt for something very mild and always test in an inconspicuous spot first. Remember, you can always consult a professional leather cleaner for advice.

Fabric: Let’s be honest, removing contact cement from fabric is a nightmare. It’s often deeply embedded in the fibers. Consider professional cleaning – they have specialized tools and chemicals. If you’re brave enough to try it yourself, spot testing is absolutely crucial. Start with a very mild solvent and blot gently. Be prepared for the possibility that you won’t be able to remove it completely.

The Golden Rule: Test, Test, Test!

I cannot stress this enough: before you go slathering any solvent all over your project, test it on an inconspicuous area. This is your chance to see how the solvent reacts with the substrate without ruining the whole thing. A small, hidden corner is your best friend. Apply a tiny amount of solvent, wait a few minutes, and see what happens. If all looks good, proceed with caution. If not, it’s back to the drawing board!

Gear Up: Assembling Your Contact Cement Removal Arsenal

Okay, so you’ve decided to tackle that sticky situation – old contact cement. Before you dive in headfirst, let’s make sure you’re properly equipped. Think of this as your pre-battle checklist, except instead of battling dragons, you’re battling… well, glue. But trust me, sometimes it feels just as epic.

The Must-Have Toolkit:

Scrapers: Your First Line of Defense Think of scrapers as your tiny but mighty excavators.
- Plastic Scrapers: These are your go-to for delicate surfaces. They’re gentle, like a soft whisper telling the glue to “please leave.” The downside? They might not be tough enough for really stubborn adhesives.
- Metal Scrapers: Bring in the big guns! Metal scrapers are your heavy-duty option. They’re great for tackling hardened cement, but be warned: they can scratch or gouge softer materials if you’re not careful. Think of them as having a bit of a temper.
Cloths/Rags: The Clean-Up Crew You’ll need plenty of these to apply your solvent and wipe away the dissolved goo.
- Lint-Free is Key: Trust me on this one. You don’t want to leave a trail of fuzzy debris behind. Imagine trying to paint a masterpiece, but the canvas is covered in fluff – disaster!
Brushes: Precision Application
- Natural Bristle is Best: When it comes to solvents, natural bristles are your friend. They stand up better to the chemicals and won’t dissolve or fall apart like some synthetic brushes might. These are perfect for getting into those tight corners and edges.
Small Containers: Solvent Central You don’t want to lug around a giant can of solvent. Pouring a small amount into a container makes the job easier and safer. Plus, it minimizes the risk of spills. (because we’ve all been there)
Eye Dropper or Syringe: Surgical Precision Sometimes, you need to be laser-focused with your solvent application. An eye dropper or syringe lets you target just the right spot, avoiding any collateral damage.

Don’t Forget the Air Support: Ventilation is Key

Solvents can be stinky, and some can be downright harmful if you breathe them in for too long. Proper ventilation is a MUST.

Fans: Your Air-Moving Allies A good fan can work wonders to circulate the air and whisk away those nasty fumes. Aim it to blow the fumes away from you and towards an open window.
Open Windows: The Classic Solution Fresh air is your best friend. Open as many windows as possible to create a cross-breeze. If the weather cooperates, doing the job outside is even better!

Now that you’ve got your tools assembled, you’re ready to tackle that contact cement with confidence. Remember, preparation is half the battle! Now, let’s move on to the next step – safety first!

Safety First: Protecting Yourself from Harmful Chemicals

Alright, let’s get real. We’re talking about chemicals, not sunshine and rainbows. Contact cement removal can be a breeze, but only if you treat these solvents with the respect they deserve. Think of them as tiny, mischievous gremlins – helpful when you know the rules, but disastrous if you don’t! We’re here to make sure you’re fully equipped to handle those gremlins like a pro.

Key Safety Considerations: Playing it Safe

Flammability: Listen up, folks! Many solvents are more flammable than your ex’s temper. Keep these things AWAY from open flames, sparks, pilot lights, or anything that could ignite them. Imagine your workspace as a “No Smoking” zone, but times a hundred. A fire extinguisher nearby isn’t a bad idea, just in case.
Toxicity: These chemicals aren’t exactly health food. Solvents can be harmful if you breathe them in, swallow them (seriously, don’t!), or even get them on your skin. Think of them as sneaky ninjas – they can attack from multiple angles.
Ventilation: Ever walked into a room and felt lightheaded from the fumes? That’s a big NO-NO! You need good ventilation to keep those solvent fumes from building up. Open windows, turn on a fan, or even consider working outdoors if possible. Imagine your workspace is a crowded concert – you need to keep the air circulating!
Disposal: So, you’ve got some rags soaked in solvent? Don’t just toss them in the trash. These can be a fire hazard. Check your local regulations for proper disposal methods. Often, it involves letting them dry completely in a well-ventilated area (away from anything flammable, of course) before tossing them. Treat them like hazardous waste, because, well, they are.
First Aid: Accidents happen, even to the best of us. Before you even open that can of solvent, know what to do if you get it on your skin, breathe too much in, or (heaven forbid) swallow it. The Safety Data Sheet (SDS) is your best friend here – it has all the info you need, including first aid instructions. Keep it handy! Don’t just wing it.

Gearing Up: Your Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Think of PPE as your superhero costume against the solvent villains. You wouldn’t fight crime without your suit, would you?

Gloves: Latex gloves? Nope. Go for solvent-resistant gloves made of nitrile or neoprene. These will protect your skin from absorbing those nasty chemicals. Imagine them as a force field for your hands.
Eye Protection: You only get one set of eyes, so protect them! Wear safety goggles or a face shield to keep solvent splashes away from your peepers. Think of them as a windshield for your face.
Respirator: If you’re working in a poorly ventilated area or using especially toxic solvents, a respirator with an organic vapor cartridge is essential. This filters out harmful fumes. But here’s the catch: respirators only work if they fit properly. Consult a professional for fit testing to make sure you’re getting the protection you need. It’s like getting a custom-made superhero mask – it has to fit perfectly!

WARNING: This is where things get serious. If you start feeling dizzy, nauseous, or have trouble breathing, STOP IMMEDIATELY and get some fresh air. Don’t try to be a hero. And if those symptoms don’t go away, see a doctor. Your health is worth more than any DIY project.

Step-by-Step Guide: Dissolving Contact Cement Safely and Effectively

Alright, folks, ready to roll up your sleeves and tackle that sticky situation? Removing contact cement can seem daunting, but with a little patience and the right approach, you’ll be smooth sailing in no time. Think of it like defusing a tiny, gluey bomb—without the explosions, hopefully!

Step 1: Preparation – Operation: Shield the Surroundings!

First things first, let’s create a safe zone. Imagine you’re a surgeon prepping for a delicate operation—only, instead of an operating table, it’s your workbench, floor, or whatever surface fell victim to the contact cement monster. Lay down those drop cloths or plastic sheeting like you’re protecting priceless artifacts. This is your defense against solvent splatters and runaway glue globs. Trust me, future you will thank you! It’s like building a tiny, impermeable fortress against the stickiness.

Step 2: Testing – The Sneak Peek Before the Grand Finale

Now, before you go all in, let’s play it smart. This is where we channel our inner detectives. Find an inconspicuous spot on the affected material and dab a bit of your chosen solvent there. This is crucial. You don’t want to dissolve the contact cement only to discover you’ve also dissolved the underlying surface! Wait a few minutes and see what happens. If the material starts to bubble, discolor, or otherwise freak out, abort mission! Find a gentler solvent, stat! This step is like taste-testing before cooking a full meal.

Step 3: Application – The Gentle Soak

Time to get the solvent involved! Grab your brush, cloth, or syringe (depending on the size and location of the adhesive) and apply a thin, even layer of solvent to the contact cement. Don’t go overboard—we’re not trying to drown it, just give it a good soak. The goal is to let the solvent work its magic, breaking down those stubborn bonds. Apply solvent in small circle motions on top of the adhesive.

Step 4: Waiting Time – The Patience Game

This is where the real test begins: the waiting game. Consult your solvent’s instructions for the recommended dwell time. This is not the time to binge-watch cat videos (tempting as it may be). The solvent needs time to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Depending on the solvent and the thickness of the contact cement, this could take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour (or even longer for particularly stubborn cases). Think of it as marinating a tough cut of meat—patience is key!

Step 5: Scraping – The Great Removal

With your scraper in hand (plastic for delicate surfaces, metal for tougher jobs), gently start to remove the softened contact cement. Work carefully, like you’re excavating a fossil. Avoid gouging or scratching the surface. If the cement is putting up a fight, don’t force it! Add more solvent and wait a bit longer. Remember, slow and steady wins the race (and preserves your sanity).

Step 6: Residue Removal – The Final Wipe Down

Ah, almost there! Once you’ve scraped off the bulk of the contact cement, you’ll likely be left with a sticky residue. Don’t panic! Dampen a clean cloth with solvent and wipe away the remaining gunk. You may need to repeat steps 3-6 for particularly stubborn spots. Think of it like removing the last traces of a delicious meal from your plate.

Step 7: Cleaning – The Grand Finale

Congratulations, you’ve conquered the contact cement monster! To finish the job, clean the surface with a mild cleaner to remove any remaining solvent residue. This will ensure a clean, smooth surface for whatever project you have planned next. You’ve earned yourself a pat on the back (and maybe a well-deserved nap!).

Patience is Your Superpower

Remember, folks, patience and a gentle touch are your best friends in this process. Avoid the urge to Hulk-smash your way through the job, as this can lead to damage and frustration. Take your time, follow these steps, and you’ll be amazed at how easily you can dissolve even the most stubborn contact cement! You got this!

Surface Preparation: Getting Ready for the Next Act!

So, you’ve wrestled that stubborn contact cement off your project – congratulations! But hold your horses, partner; we’re not quite done yet. Think of it like this: you’ve cleared the stage, but now you need to set it for the next performance. Proper surface preparation is absolutely critical to ensure whatever comes next – paint, stain, a new laminate, or even more adhesive – adheres properly and looks fantastic. If you skip this step, you might as well be building your house on a foundation of jellybeans!

Cleaning Crew, Assemble!

Now, let’s talk about cleaning up the crime scene… I mean, the project surface. You’ve got a few options, depending on what kind of mess we’re dealing with:

Mild Soap and Water: This is your go-to for mopping up any lingering solvent residue. Think of it as a gentle, all-purpose cleaner for your project. Make sure to use a mild soap; we don’t want to leave behind a soapy film that could interfere with the next step.
Degreasers: Did the contact cement leave behind a greasy film? Time to bring in the big guns! A degreaser will cut through those oily residues and leave you with a clean, receptive surface. Just be sure to choose a degreaser that’s compatible with your substrate – you don’t want to accidentally melt your plastic or strip the finish off your wood.
Sandpaper: Ah, sandpaper, the miracle worker! If you’ve got any stubborn imperfections or want to create a slightly roughened surface for better adhesion, sandpaper is your friend. But remember, it’s a scalpel, not a chainsaw. Start with a fine grit and work your way up to avoid accidentally gouging your project.

Preparing for the Grand Finale

Okay, the surface is clean. Now, how do we prep it for its starring role? It all depends on what you plan to do next:

Painting: Sanding is key! A smooth, slightly roughened surface will give the paint something to grip. Then, consider a primer – it acts like a double-sided tape for paint, ensuring it adheres evenly and lasts longer.
Staining: You’ll want to sand the surface smooth and ensure it’s free of any blemishes or residue. If the wood has become unevenly saturated with solvent during the cleaning process, allow it to dry completely.
Re-bonding: Again, sanding is your friend! A slightly roughened surface will give the new adhesive a better grip. You might also consider using a primer specifically designed for bonding, especially if you’re working with tricky materials.

By taking the time to properly prepare the surface, you’re setting yourself up for success. Trust me, a little extra effort here will pay off in the long run! So, grab your cleaning supplies, put on some tunes, and get ready to create a masterpiece!

Troubleshooting: When Things Go Sideways (and How to Fix Them!)

Okay, so you’re elbow-deep in contact cement removal, feeling like a DIY superhero… until BAM! Something goes wrong. Don’t sweat it! We’ve all been there. Removing contact cement can sometimes feel like battling a sticky, stubborn monster. But fear not, this section is your monster-fighting manual. Let’s tackle those common hiccups together.

Stubborn Residue: The Never-Ending Stickiness

Ugh, the bane of every DIYer’s existence: that thin, tenacious layer of contact cement that just. Won’t. Budge. You’ve scraped, you’ve scrubbed, you’ve questioned your life choices. What now?

More Solvent (and Patience!): Sometimes, all it takes is another dose of your chosen solvent and a bit more wait time. Seriously, let that stuff soak. Give it a good 15-20 minutes (or even longer for really stubborn cases) to work its magic. Think of it as marinating the adhesive.
Up the Scraping Game (Carefully!): If gentle scraping isn’t cutting it, consider a slightly more aggressive scraper, like one with a sharper edge. But proceed with caution! Remember, the goal is to remove the residue, not carve a Jackson Pollock masterpiece into your substrate. Go slow, use steady pressure, and angle the scraper to avoid digging in.
Heat it up! (With Caution!): A heat gun or hairdryer (on a low setting) can sometimes soften the stubborn adhesive. Be very careful not to overheat the surface or use this technique on heat-sensitive materials.

Substrate Damage: Oops, I Didn’t Mean To Do That!

This is the one we all dread: realizing that our valiant efforts have resulted in gouges, scratches, or discoloration on the underlying surface. Take a breath – it happens! The key is to stop, assess the damage, and come up with a repair plan.

Gentler is Better: First, ditch the harsh solvents and aggressive scrapers immediately! You’ve already learned your lesson, right? Switch to a milder solvent (like adhesive remover or naphtha) and a plastic scraper.
Repair and Conceal: Thankfully, most minor substrate damage can be repaired.
- Wood: Wood filler or patching compound can fill gouges and scratches. Sand smooth and refinish to match the surrounding area.
- Laminate: Laminate repair kits are available to patch chips and scratches.
- Metal: Depending on the type of metal and damage, you might be able to buff out scratches or use metal filler.
Prevention is Key: As always, test your solvent on an inconspicuous area first! And remember, a gentle hand and patience are your best friends.

Solvent Incompatibility: When Solvents Attack!

Sometimes, the solvent you’ve chosen just doesn’t play nice with the substrate. Maybe it’s dissolving the plastic, discoloring the wood finish, or causing the laminate to bubble. Time to switch gears!

Identify the Culprit: Figure out exactly what’s reacting badly. Is it the solvent itself, or something in the solvent (like a harsh additive in lacquer thinner)?
Consult the Compatibility Chart (Your Brain!): Refer back to the “Understanding Your Substrate” section of this guide and choose a solvent that’s known to be compatible with your material.
Test, Test, Test!: Seriously, we can’t say this enough. Always test the new solvent in an inconspicuous area before applying it to the entire surface.

Fume Overload: Feeling a Little Woozy?

Solvent fumes can be nasty. If you’re starting to feel dizzy, nauseous, or have a headache, it’s time to take action!

Ventilation, Ventilation, Ventilation!: Open windows, turn on fans, do whatever it takes to increase airflow in your workspace. Cross-ventilation is ideal.
Respirator to the Rescue: If you’re working with strong solvents or in a poorly ventilated area, a respirator with an organic vapor cartridge is a must.
Take a Break!: Sometimes, the best thing you can do is step away from the project, get some fresh air, and come back to it later. Your brain (and your lungs) will thank you.

Remember, removing contact cement can be a bit of a trial-and-error process. But with a little patience, the right tools, and a healthy dose of caution, you can conquer even the stickiest situations!

So, there you have it! Dissolving contact cement isn’t exactly rocket science, but a little know-how can save you a ton of headache (and maybe a few fingernails). Now go forth and conquer those sticky situations!