Dado Blade Table Saw: Woodworking Projects

A table saw with a dado blade represents an invaluable tool for woodworkers because it enhances both precision and efficiency in creating various woodworking joints. The dado blade itself is a specialized type of saw blade, it is designed to cut wide grooves or rabbets in wood, essential for joinery techniques like creating precisely fitted shelving or drawer construction. When we use a table saw, this woodworking machine provides a stable and flat surface that ensures accurate and consistent cuts, this is especially important when cutting dados. The combination of a woodworking project and a dado blade on a table saw significantly expands the capabilities for creating more complex and refined woodworking projects.

Unleashing the Potential of Dado Blades: A Woodworker’s Secret Weapon

So, you’re diving into the world of woodworking, huh? Awesome! You’re probably hearing terms like “dado,” and if you’re anything like I was when I started, you’re thinking, “Da-what-now?” Fear not, my friend! We’re about to demystify the dado blade and show you why it’s an absolute game-changer in the shop.

What Exactly IS a Dado?

Think of a dado as a channel or groove cut into a piece of wood. It’s not just a random line; it’s a carefully crafted recess designed to house another piece of wood. Picture a shelf fitting snugly into the side of a bookcase – that’s a dado in action! You will find it commonly used in shelves, cabinet construction, drawers, or any woodworking project where you need to join pieces of wood at right angles strongly and neatly.

Dados vs. Rabbets vs. Grooves: A Quick Guide

Now, let’s clear up some potential confusion. You might also hear about rabbets and grooves. While they’re all similar, here’s the lowdown:

• Dado: Cut across the grain.
• Rabbet: Cut along the edge of a board.
• Groove: Cut with the grain.

Think of it this way: a dado is like a little shelf carved into the wood. A rabbet is like a bite taken out of the edge, and a groove is a pathway.

Why Dado Blades are King

Okay, so you know what a dado is. But why use a special blade to make one? Well, you could use a router, or make multiple passes with a standard blade, but honestly, that’s like using a spoon to dig a swimming pool.

• Efficiency: Dado blades cut the entire width of the dado in a single pass. This is a major time-saver.
• Precision: Dado blades are designed to create perfectly consistent and accurate dadoes every time.
• Cleaner Cuts: Dado blades leave a smooth, flat bottom in the dado, which means less sanding and a better-looking finished product.

With a dado blade set you get versatility in joint creation. It is useful in creating various types of joints with ease and precision which makes the woodworking projects stronger and visually appealing.

Decoding Your Table Saw: Is it Dado-Ready?

Alright, so you’re itching to unleash the power of a dado blade set, huh? Awesome! But hold your horses (or horsepower, in this case) for a sec. Before you start stacking blades and dreaming of perfectly fitted shelves, let’s make sure your trusty table saw is actually up for the task. Think of it like checking if your car can handle towing that boat – you really don’t want to find out it can’t halfway up a steep hill!

Arbor Size: The Unsung Hero

First and foremost, we gotta talk arbor size. This is crucial. The arbor is that little spindle thingy that sticks out of your saw and holds the blade. Almost all dado blade sets are designed for a 5/8-inch arbor. If your saw has a different size, you’re out of luck, my friend. It’s like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole – it just ain’t gonna work, and you definitely don’t want to force it. Check your saw’s manual, or just measure the arbor to be absolutely sure.

Horsepower and RPM: Gotta Have the Muscle

Now, let’s chat about muscle – or rather, horsepower (HP) and RPM (Revolutions Per Minute). Your table saw needs enough oomph to spin those dado blades through the wood without bogging down or, worse, causing the motor to overheat. Think of it like this: a wider dado cut means more wood being removed, which requires more power.

• Underpowered saws (typically those with less than 1.5 HP) might struggle with wider dados, especially in hardwoods. They might still work for narrower cuts, but you’ll need to take it slow and steady, like a tortoise on a Sunday stroll.
• As for RPM, check your saw’s specs and the dado blade set’s recommendations. You want them to be in the same ballpark for optimal cutting performance and safety.

Throat Plate/Insert: A Necessary Safety Net

Okay, picture this: you’ve got your dado blades stacked and ready, but you fire up your saw and suddenly realize there’s this huge, gaping hole around the blade. Yikes! That’s where the throat plate/insert comes in.

• A standard throat plate is designed for a single blade.
• A dado insert is wider with a much bigger opening to accommodate the width of the stacked dado blades, this is a non-negotiable. This will not only support the wider blade configuration but reduce tear-out around the cut and, most importantly, prevent small pieces from falling into the saw, which could lead to a dangerous kickback.

So, before you even think about making that first dado cut, make sure you have the correct dado insert installed. It’s a small investment that pays off big time in terms of safety and peace of mind. Trust me on this one!

Deconstructing the Dado Blade Set: Components and Functions

Okay, so you’ve got this shiny new dado blade set, all neatly arranged in its case, and you’re probably thinking, “What are all these things?!” Don’t worry, it’s not as intimidating as it looks. Think of it like a woodworking Voltron – each piece has a specific job, and when they all come together, BAM! Perfect dados. Let’s break down what each piece does and how they help you achieve woodworking glory.

The Mighty Outside Blades

First up, we have the Outside Blades. These are your primary cutting tools, the ones doing most of the heavy lifting. Usually, you’ll have two of these, and they sit on either side of the stack. These blades come in a few different flavors, the most common being flat-ground or chipper-ground. Flat-ground blades give you super clean, flat edges, which is awesome for most dados. Chipper-ground blades are a bit more aggressive, designed to remove material quickly, sometimes leaving a slightly less refined edge. The key is to make sure these are razor-sharp for clean cuts.

The Chippers: Width Wizards

Next, we have the Chippers. These little guys are the secret sauce for dialing in the width of your dado. They sit between the outside blades and come in different thicknesses (usually ranging from 1/8″ to 1/4″). The more chippers you add, the wider your dado becomes. It’s like playing woodworking Tetris!

Stacking is Key:

The trick is to experiment with different combinations of chippers to get your desired width. Let’s say you need a 3/4″ dado. You might use the two outside blades, plus a 1/2″ chipper and a 1/4″ chipper. Remember to check your manufacturer’s instructions for the maximum allowable stack height to avoid any uh-oh moments. Safety first, always!

Shim Set: Fine-Tuning for Perfection

Finally, we have the Shim Set. These are your precision artists, allowing you to fine-tune the width of your dado down to a hair’s breadth. Shims are super thin washers that you slip between the blades and chippers. A few thousandths of an inch here or there can make all the difference between a perfectly snug fit and a sloppy, gappy mess. When we talk about precision that’s exactly what a Shim Set is all about.

Key Features to Consider When Choosing Dado Blades

Okay, so you’re ready to dive into the world of dado blades? Awesome! But before you click that “Add to Cart” button, let’s chat about what to actually look for. Buying a dado blade set isn’t like grabbing a pack of gum; it’s an investment in your woodworking future! Here’s the lowdown on making sure you choose a set that’s the right fit for your saw and your projects.

Blade Diameter: Size Matters (Really!)

Think of blade diameter like shoe size—you wouldn’t try squeezing into a size 7 when you’re a 12, right? Same deal here. Common dado blade sizes are typically 6″ and 8″. Your table saw’s manual is your best friend here, giving you the maximum blade diameter it can handle. Go bigger than recommended, and you’re asking for trouble (and potentially a visit to the emergency room). Ignoring this is like trying to fit an elephant in a Mini Cooper. It. Won’t. Work.

Kerf: Getting Down to the Nitty-Gritty (Thickness)

Kerf—it sounds like something a cartoon character says when they stub their toe, but it’s actually super important! Kerf is the width of the cut the blade makes (blade thickness). A thicker kerf removes more material, impacting how snugly your joints fit together. If you’re aiming for super-tight, seamless joinery, pay close attention to the kerf. It will often be listed in decimal inches (e.g., .125″). Consider that a thinner kerf equals tighter joints. Pay attention to what you’re building!

Maximum Dado Width: Know Your Limits

Imagine planning a massive bookshelf project, only to realize your dado blade set maxes out at a measly 1/2″ wide. Major bummer! The maximum dado width is the widest cut the set can achieve when all the blades and chippers are stacked together. Figure out the widest dado you’ll realistically need for your projects and ensure your chosen set can handle it. It’s always better to have a little extra capacity than to be stuck with a set that can’t quite cut it (pun intended!). This is essential for effective planning!

Safety First: A Comprehensive Guide to Safe Dado Blade Operation

Alright, let’s talk safety, folks! Dado blades are fantastic for creating beautiful joints, but they’re not exactly toys. Think of them like a powerful sports car – exhilarating when handled correctly, but potentially disastrous if you’re careless. So, buckle up, and let’s go over some essential safety measures to keep all your fingers intact and your projects looking sharp.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

• Eye Protection: Imagine a tiny wood chip, propelled by the immense power of your spinning dado blade, heading straight for your eyeball. Not a pretty picture, right? That’s why eye protection is non-negotiable. Safety glasses are a must, but a face shield offers even better coverage. Think of it as a personal force field against flying debris.

• Hearing Protection: Table saws are loud. Dado blades? Even louder. Prolonged exposure to that kind of noise can lead to hearing damage. Do yourself (and your ears) a favor and grab some earplugs or earmuffs. Your future self will thank you when you can still hear the birds chirping.

Table Saw Safety Accessories

• Blade Guard: Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Blade guards are annoying.” And sometimes they are. But if your blade guard is compatible with your dado blade setup, use it! It’s a crucial barrier between you and the spinning blade. It might take a little getting used to, but it could save you from a serious injury.

• Anti-Kickback Pawls: Kickback is when the wood suddenly gets thrown back at you during a cut. It’s terrifying and can be incredibly dangerous. Anti-kickback pawls are designed to dig into the wood if it starts moving backward, preventing that nasty kickback. Make sure they’re properly adjusted and doing their job.

• Riving Knife/Splitter: A riving knife (or splitter) sits behind the blade and helps prevent the wood from pinching and binding. This binding is a major cause of kickback. If your saw has a riving knife that’s compatible with your dado setup, use it! It’s an essential safety feature.

Safe Practices

• Locking the Fence: This one seems obvious, but it’s worth repeating. Before you start that saw, double-check, triple-check, and then check again that your fence is securely locked. A moving fence during a dado cut is a recipe for disaster.

• Avoiding Kickback: Kickback is scary, and it can be incredibly dangerous. Here are a few tips to help you avoid it:

  • Use a push stick: Keep your hands away from the blade by using a push stick to guide the wood through the cut.
  • Consistent Feed Rate: Don’t force the wood, but don’t go too slow either. A consistent, steady feed rate is key to a smooth and safe cut.
  • Check the Wood: Make sure the wood is straight and doesn’t have any knots or imperfections that could cause it to bind.

• Understanding and adhering to Safe Operating Procedures as outlined by the table saw manufacturer: Your table saw came with a manual, right? Read it! It contains specific safety instructions and operating procedures for your particular saw model. Ignoring those instructions is like driving a car without knowing the rules of the road.

Preparing for the Cut: Precision Setup for Perfect Dados

Alright, woodworkers, listen up! You’ve got your shiny new dado blade set, you’ve checked your saw, and you’re itching to get cutting. But hold your horses! This is where the magic really happens – the preparation. Think of it like prepping your ingredients before cooking; you wouldn’t just throw everything in the pan and hope for the best, would you? Same goes for dados. Sloppy prep equals sloppy joints. And nobody wants a wobbly shelf!

Measure Twice, Cut Once (and Maybe a Third Time for Good Measure!)

Let’s talk measuring and marking. This isn’t the time to eyeball it! Accuracy is your best friend when it comes to tight-fitting joints that look professional. Ditch the dull pencil and grab something sharp – a mechanical pencil or a marking knife works wonders. Use precise measuring tools like a good quality combination square, a ruler with fine graduations, or even digital calipers if you’re feeling fancy.

Think of it like this: you’re building a house of cards. If the base isn’t perfectly level, the whole thing comes crashing down. Your dado joint is the foundation of your project, so make those measurements count! And always, always double-check. Maybe even triple-check. We’ve all been there, staring at a piece of wood we just ruined because we didn’t double-check. Save yourself the headache (and the wood!).

Dialing in Depth: Setting Blade Height

Next up, blade height. This is where you control the depth of your dado. Too shallow, and your piece won’t sit flush. Too deep, and you’ve got an ugly gap. So, how do you get it just right? Start by measuring the thickness of the piece that will be fitting into the dado. That’s your target depth.

Now, slowly raise the blade until it’s close to the desired height. Don’t just crank it up and hope for the best! A little at a time. Use a ruler or a digital height gauge to get an accurate reading. Remember, you can always take away more material, but you can’t put it back!

Fence Fundamentals: Setting Fence Position

Alright, time to set that fence! This controls the width of your dado, and parallel cuts are key. Use your measuring tools to accurately position the fence the correct distance from the outside of the blade. Ensure the fence is perfectly parallel to the blade to avoid angled or uneven dados.

A little tip: after locking the fence, always give it a little nudge to make sure it’s truly secure. Trust me, that little bit of extra security can save you from some serious frustration.

The All-Important Test Cut!

Okay, now for the grand finale of the prep stage: the test cut. This is not optional! Grab some scrap wood of the same thickness as your project pieces. This step is your chance to catch any mistakes before you ruin your good wood.

Make a test cut and check the width and depth of the dado. Does the piece fit snugly? Is it too tight or too loose? Adjust the blade height and fence position as needed and repeat the test until you achieve the perfect fit.

I cannot stress this enough: The test cut is your best friend and prevents costly mistakes. It’s a small investment of time that pays off big time in the final result. You got this! Now go out there and make some awesome dados!

Mastering Dado Cutting Techniques: From Basic to Advanced

Okay, you’ve got your dado blade set, you’ve made sure your saw is ready, and safety is your top priority. Now it’s time to actually cut some dados! It’s not as scary as it might seem, and with a little practice, you’ll be cranking out perfect joints in no time. Let’s dive into the various techniques, from the super simple to the slightly more complex.

Basic Dado Cutting: One and Done (Almost!)

Sometimes, you need a nice, narrow dado – think shelving in a small cabinet. If your desired dado width is less than or equal to what you can achieve with your dado blade set at its thinnest configuration, you’re in luck! This is a single-pass situation. Just set your fence, dial in your blade height, and carefully push your workpiece through.

But what if you need a wider dado than your thinnest blade setup? Don’t sweat it! Multiple passes are your friend. The trick here is to set up for the first cut and make it. Then, slightly adjust your fence and make another pass, overlapping the first cut. Repeat until you’ve achieved the desired width. The key is making small adjustments and ensuring your passes overlap consistently to avoid ridges or unevenness in the dado. Remember to take your time, and you’ll be golden.

Advanced Dado Cuts: When Things Get Interesting

This is where we start adding a bit of flair and concealment to our joinery. We’re talking about blind dados and stopped dados, perfect for when you want a clean, uninterrupted look on the outside of your project.

• Blind Dados: These are dados that don’t go all the way to the edge of the board, creating a hidden joint. The trick is to carefully lower the workpiece onto the spinning blade, making sure to start and stop the cut precisely where you need it. Some woodworkers prefer using a starting block clamped to the fence to ensure consistent placement. Practice on scrap first!

• Stopped Dados: Similar to blind dados, stopped dados also don’t run the full length of the board. The difference is that stopped dados typically start at one edge and end somewhere in the middle. This requires a steady hand and precise control as you raise and lower the workpiece onto the blade. Again, scrap wood is your friend while you get the hang of it.

The Tenoning Jig: A Secret Weapon

Alright, here’s a little secret weapon that can elevate your dado game: a tenoning jig. While primarily designed for cutting tenons (obviously!), a tenoning jig can also be invaluable for cutting dados, especially angled or complex ones. The jig provides increased stability and control, allowing you to make precise cuts with confidence. It’s particularly useful when dealing with smaller workpieces or when you need to ensure a perfectly square or angled dado. Consider this for more complicated projects; a tenoning jig is worth its weight in sawdust!

Material Matters: Taming the Timber When Cutting Dados

Alright, woodworkers, let’s talk about the real nitty-gritty: how different types of wood react to a spinning dado blade. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation, folks. Each wood has its own personality, its own quirks, and its own way of trying to ruin your perfect dado. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t treat a delicate soufflé the same way you treat a tough steak, right? Same goes for wood!

Softwoods: Handle with Kid Gloves (and Sharp Blades!)

Ah, softwoods. Pine, fir, cedar… these are often the gateway woods for new woodworkers, and for good reason – they’re usually easier on the wallet and simpler to work with than their hardwood cousins. But don’t let their gentle nature fool you. Softwoods have a real tendency to splinter, especially when you’re ripping through them with a dado blade. It’s like they’re throwing tiny, jagged tantrums.

So, how do we keep these wooden crybabies happy? The key is sharpness. A razor-sharp dado blade is your best friend here. Dull blades are more likely to tear the wood fibers rather than slice them cleanly. Also, consider making multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut. Think of it like shaving – multiple passes with a sharp razor get a smoother result than one aggressive swipe. And backing material (scrap wood clamped behind your workpiece) can offer support to prevent splintering on the exit side of the cut.

Hardwoods: Patience is a Virtue (and a Sharp Blade, Still!)

Now we’re talking muscle. Oak, maple, cherry… these hardwoods are the tanks of the woodworking world. They’re strong, durable, and beautiful, but they can also be stubborn. Achieving clean dado cuts in hardwoods requires a bit more finesse. Their density means more resistance, which translates to a higher risk of burning and a greater demand on your table saw’s horsepower.

The name of the game here is feed rate. Don’t force it! Let the blade do the work. A slower, steadier feed rate gives the blade time to cleanly slice through those tough fibers, minimizing tear-out and burning. Also, just like with softwoods, sharp blades are essential. You might even consider using a blade with a higher tooth count, as it will produce a cleaner cut in dense material. Remember, it’s a marathon, not a sprint.

Plywood, MDF, and Particleboard: The Laminated Labyrinth

Ah, the engineered woods. Plywood, MDF, and particleboard are ubiquitous in modern woodworking, thanks to their stability and affordability. But they present a unique challenge when it comes to dado cuts: tear-out on those outer veneers. The layered construction means the blade can easily catch an edge and rip off a chunk of that delicate surface layer.

So, how do we conquer the laminated labyrinth? Start with a zero-clearance insert. This close-fitting insert provides maximum support around the blade, reducing the space for the veneer to splinter. Scoring the cut line with a utility knife before making the dado cut can also help to prevent tear-out. By slicing through the fibers beforehand, you create a clean break point for the dado blade. And again, sharp blades are non-negotiable. A dull blade will just exacerbate the tear-out problem. Finally, climb cutting, or feeding the wood against the rotation of the blade, is a great technique in many situations, but can cause excessive tear-out here and should be avoided.

Troubleshooting Common Dado Cutting Problems

Let’s face it, even with the best setup and intentions, things can sometimes go sideways when you’re wrestling with a dado blade. Don’t fret! Everyone runs into snags now and then. The important thing is knowing how to diagnose and fix the problem. Here’s a rundown of common dado-cutting woes and how to get back on track:

Dealing With Tear-Out: When Good Wood Goes Bad

Ah, tear-out! The bane of every woodworker’s existence, especially when working with delicate materials. You think you’re making a clean cut, but then BAM!—ugly splinters appear around the edges of your dado. What gives?

• The Usual Suspects:

  • Dull blades: A dull blade is more like a wood-mauling monster than a cutting tool. It tears the wood fibers instead of slicing them cleanly.
  • Aggressive Feed Rate: Pushing the wood too quickly forces the blade to work harder, increasing the likelihood of tear-out.
  • Wood Type: Some woods, like softwoods and plywood, are just more prone to tear-out.

• The Fixes:

  • Sharpness is Key: Invest in a good blade sharpening service or learn to sharpen your blades yourself. A sharp blade is your first line of defense.
  • Score the Cut: Before making the full dado cut, use a utility knife or scoring tool to score the cut line. This helps sever the surface fibers and prevents them from tearing out.
  • Backing Material: When cutting plywood or other easily splintered materials, clamp a piece of scrap wood tightly to the back of the workpiece. This provides support and prevents tear-out on the exit side of the cut.
  • Slow and Steady Wins the Race: Reduce your feed rate. Let the blade do the work, and don’t force it.

Wobbly Cuts: Straightening Out Your Dados

Ever end up with a dado that looks like it was cut by a tipsy snake? Wobbly cuts are frustrating, but they’re often a sign of a problem you can fix.

• The Culprits:

  • Arbor Issues: Is your table saw arbor bent or damaged? Even a slight wobble in the arbor can translate into a wavy cut.
  • Blade Problems: Are your blades clean and installed correctly? A build-up of pitch and resin or improperly stacked blades can cause vibrations.
  • Technique Troubles: Are you holding the wood firmly against the fence and table? Inconsistent pressure can lead to wandering cuts.

• The Solutions:

  • Arbor Inspection: Check your table saw arbor for any signs of damage. If it’s bent, get it repaired or replaced by a professional.
  • Clean and Inspect Your Blades: Clean your dado blades thoroughly with a blade cleaner to remove any pitch or resin. Make sure the blades and chippers are stacked correctly and that all the shims are in place.
  • Focus on Technique: Keep constant, firm pressure on the wood against both the fence and the table. Use feather boards to help keep the wood snug to the fence. A helper can be beneficial for long boards.

Preventing Burning: No Bonfires on the Table Saw!

The smell of burning wood is never a good sign in the workshop. Burning indicates that the blade is getting too hot, which can damage the wood and even the blade itself.

• The Reasons:

  • Slow Feed Rate: Feeding the wood too slowly gives the blade more time to generate heat.
  • Dull Blades: A dull blade requires more force to cut, leading to friction and heat build-up.

• The Remedies:

  • Find the Right Speed: Increase your feed rate slightly. The goal is to find a balance where the blade is cutting efficiently without overheating.
  • SHARP BLADES: Use sharp blades.
  • Wax On, Wax Off: Applying paste wax to the table saw surface reduces friction and helps the wood glide more smoothly.

Correcting Incorrect Widths: Fine-Tuning for a Perfect Fit

A dado that’s too wide or too narrow is a recipe for a wobbly, weak joint. Getting the width just right is essential for strong, reliable construction.

• The Issue:

  • Your dado is too wide and leaves a gap.

• The Cause:

  • Inaccurate Setup: The dado blade stack was not set up to the correct width initially.

• The Solutions:

  • Shim Magic: The beauty of a dado blade set lies in its adjustability. Experiment with adding or removing shims between the blades and chippers to fine-tune the width in small increments. Remember, a little shim can make a big difference.
  • Test Cuts, Test Cuts, Test Cuts: Before cutting your final workpiece, always make test cuts on scrap material of the same thickness. This allows you to dial in the perfect width without ruining your project.
  • Measure Twice, Cut Once: Always double-check your measurements and blade stack configuration before making the cut.

By addressing these common problems head-on, you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of the dado cut and creating strong, beautiful woodworking projects.

Essential Tools for Precision Dado Cuts

Okay, so you’ve got your dado blade set, your table saw is purring like a kitten (hopefully not too loudly!), and you’re ready to start carving out some perfectly snug dados. But hold on a sec, partner! Before you dive headfirst into the sawdust, let’s talk about a few trusty sidekicks that’ll make your dado-cutting adventure safer, more accurate, and a whole lot less…well, nerve-wracking. Think of these tools as your woodworking posse, ready to back you up when things get a little dicey.

First up, we have the dynamic duo of push sticks and push blocks. These aren’t just glorified pieces of wood; they’re your lifeline when it comes to keeping your fingers far, far away from that spinning blade. Seriously, folks, don’t skimp on safety. Push sticks and blocks allow you to maintain control of the workpiece while keeping your hands at a safe distance. Think of them as extensions of your hands, giving you leverage and control without the risk of becoming intimately acquainted with the blade.

Next in line is the ever-so-helpful featherboard. Imagine a superhero that keeps your wood glued to the fence while you’re slicing away. That’s what a featherboard does. By applying consistent pressure against the fence (or the table), featherboards prevent your workpiece from wandering off course, resulting in straighter, more consistent cuts. They’re especially useful when making multiple passes for wider dados. A good featherboard is like having an extra set of hands, keeping everything aligned while you focus on pushing the wood through. It is also very easy to install a featherboard onto your table saw due to their being universal in design allowing for easy install.

Last but not least, let’s talk about the precision dream team: calipers and combination squares. These aren’t your grandpa’s rusty old measuring tools. We’re talking about instruments of surgical precision. Calipers allow you to measure the exact width of your dado blade setup, ensuring that your cut matches your plan to a “T”. A combination square ensures that your lines are square and true, which is critical for tight-fitting joints. Think of them as the quality control department for your woodworking projects. They guarantee everything measures up, so there are no surprises down the road. You are also able to measure the correct depth that you will be cutting into the wood with the combination square.

So, that’s the lowdown on using a dado blade with your table saw. It might seem a bit intimidating at first, but with a little practice and a whole lot of respect for the tool, you’ll be cranking out perfect dados and rabbets in no time. Happy woodworking!