Coping & Scribing Crown Molding For Perfect Fit

Crown molding installation is a common way to add architectural interest to a room, but walls are rarely perfectly even; this is especially true in older homes where the framing can settle over time. Coping the crown molding, a technique of cutting the back edge of the molding to match the profile of the wall, is essential to achieving a seamless look. Scribing is another method used when dealing with more significant variations; it involves tracing the wall’s contour onto the molding and then carefully removing the excess material. The result of using either coping or scribing techniques on your crown molding enhances the room’s aesthetics, creating a neat finish, even when the walls are not perfectly aligned.

Alright, let’s dive into the glamorous yet oh-so-tricky world of crown molding! For those not in the know, crown molding is basically that fancy trim that sits pretty where your wall meets the ceiling. It’s like jewelry for your room, adding instant elegance, character, and a touch of “look-at-me-I’m-sophisticated” vibes. The aesthetic benefits are HUGE – it can make a room feel more finished, hide imperfections, and even increase your home’s value (cha-ching!).

Now, here’s the kicker: most of us don’t live in perfectly symmetrical, laser-straight boxes. We’re talking about real homes, with real walls that have settled, shifted, and maybe even had a few too many dance-offs. Translation? Uneven walls are the norm, not the exception.

So, what’s a DIY enthusiast to do? Throw in the towel and settle for boring, bare walls? Absolutely not! This blog post is your ultimate guide to installing crown molding like a pro, even when your walls are playing hard to get. We’ll arm you with the knowledge, tools, and techniques to conquer those imperfections and achieve a stunning, seamless finish. Think of us as your crown molding whisperers.

We’ll be covering some essential tricks of the trade, including:

  • Scribing: Tracing and matching those wonky wall contours.
  • Coping: Creating snug, invisible joints in those tricky corners.
  • Shimming: Using hidden supports to keep everything level and aligned.

Get ready to roll up your sleeves, embrace a little bit of patience, and transform your room from “meh” to “magnificent!” Let’s get molding!

Understanding the Enemy: Identifying and Assessing Uneven Walls

Okay, before we even think about slapping up that gorgeous crown molding, we need to become wall whisperers. Seriously, understanding the quirks and imperfections of your walls is half the battle. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t try to dress a rambunctious toddler in a tuxedo without first knowing their energy levels, right? Same principle applies here. We need to know what we’re dealing with.

Types of Unevenness:

Let’s break down the usual suspects:

  • Warped Walls: Imagine a gentle wave rolling across your wall. These are gradual curves, like your wall has been doing yoga stretches for years.
  • Bowed Walls: These are the dramatic divas, with more pronounced inward or outward curves. They’re not shy about showing off their non-straightness.
  • Angled Walls: These are the walls that didn’t quite get the memo about being perfectly perpendicular to the ceiling or floor. They’re living life at a slightly different angle, which is… well, kind of annoying when you’re trying to install crown molding.

Methods for Identifying Unevenness:

Time to play detective! Here’s how to sniff out those wall wonkinesses:

  • Using a Long Level or Straight Edge: This is your trusty sidekick. Hold it against the wall and look for any gaps peeking through. Those gaps? They’re your unevenness indicators.
  • Visual Inspection: Sometimes, the problem is so obvious it’s staring you right in the face. Look for dips, bows, or areas where the wall just doesn’t look quite right. Trust your gut!
  • Using a Laser Level: Want to get really fancy? A laser level projects a straight line across your wall, making any irregularities pop like they’re under a spotlight.

Impact on Crown Molding Installation:

So, why does all this wall weirdness matter? Let’s get real:

  • Gaps and Misalignments: Uneven walls are the kings and queens of creating unsightly gaps between your molding and the wall or ceiling. Nobody wants that!
  • Structural Integrity: A wobbly wall can make it tough to get that molding securely attached. We want this thing to stay put for the long haul, not become a decorative projectile.

Understanding your walls is step one in taming the beast. Once you know what you’re up against, you can develop a strategy to conquer those uneven surfaces and create a masterpiece of crown molding magic!

Arming Yourself: Essential Tools and Materials

Alright, so you’re ready to wrestle that crown molding into submission against your…unique walls. You can’t go into battle unarmed. You’ll need the right arsenal to conquer those curves and conquer those corners. Think of this as your crafting montage scene, but instead of cheesy music, you’ve got me! Let’s gather the gear.

Tools of the Trade

Measuring Like a Pro

  • Tape Measure: Obvious, right? But seriously, get a good one that won’t snap back and bite you. You’ll be measuring everything, and accuracy is your new best friend. Measure twice, cut once – it is an oldie but a goodie.
  • Level: This isn’t just for hanging pictures straight after a wild party. A level is crucial for ensuring your crown molding doesn’t look like it’s trying to escape the room at a diagonal. A laser level can be a game-changer, projecting a line across the wall to highlight those sneaky uneven spots.
  • Angle Finder/Protractor: Unless your corners are perfectly square (spoiler alert: they’re probably not), you’ll need one of these to measure the exact angle.
  • Contour Gauge/Profile Gauge: This nifty gadget is your secret weapon for scribing. Press it against the wall, and it captures the wall’s weird curves. You can then transfer that funky shape to the molding for a perfect fit.

Cutting Edge

  • Miter Saw: This is where the magic happens. A miter saw lets you make precise angle cuts, essential for those corners. Get one that’s sharp and easy to adjust.
  • Coping Saw: For those inside corners that laugh in the face of perfect miters, you’ll need a coping saw. This allows you to cope the molding, creating a joint that hugs the wall’s contours like a long-lost friend.

Fastening and Finishing

  • Nail Gun (Pneumatic or Cordless) or Hammer and Nails: A nail gun is like a superhero for crown molding. It makes quick work of attaching the molding to the wall. If you prefer the old-school route, a hammer and finish nails will do the trick, just be prepared for a bit more elbow grease.
  • Caulk Gun: This is your cleanup crew. A caulk gun lets you apply caulk smoothly and evenly, hiding those tiny imperfections.

The Rest of the Gang

  • Stud Finder: Walls are just teasing when it comes to studs. You MUST find them so you can firmly nail into them!
  • Safety Glasses: Protect those peepers! Sawdust and rogue nails are not your friends.
  • Dust Mask: Because breathing in sawdust is no one’s idea of a good time.
  • Ladder: Unless you’re a giant, you’ll need a sturdy ladder to reach those high places.

Materials: The Building Blocks of Success

  • Crown Molding: Ah, the star of the show!

    • Wood: Classic and paintable, but can be pricey and prone to warping.
    • MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard): More affordable than wood, paints well, but not ideal for high-moisture areas.
    • Polymer: Lightweight, moisture-resistant, and flexible, making it great for uneven walls.
  • Adhesives: Think of this as the glue that holds your dreams together.

    • Construction Adhesive: Especially good for those stubborn, uneven surfaces.
    • Wood Glue: A must-have for reinforcing joints.
  • Fasteners: The little guys that hold everything in place.

    • Finish Nails (Various Sizes): Choose the right size for your molding and wall type.
  • Finishing Materials: The magic touch.

    • Caulk (Paintable): For filling those tiny gaps and making everything look seamless.
    • Wood Filler: For those bigger gaps and imperfections.
    • Primer and Paint: The final flourish to match your room’s aesthetic.
  • Shims: Your secret weapon for leveling and supporting the molding behind the scenes. These thin wedges of wood are perfect for correcting angles and filling gaps.

With these tools and materials in hand, you’re now a fully equipped crown molding ninja, ready to tackle those uneven walls with confidence!

4. Planning Your Attack: Preparation is Key

Okay, so you’ve got your tools assembled, you’ve sized up the enemy (those sneaky, uneven walls), now it’s time to strategize! Think of this phase as your pre-game pep talk. Rushing into crown molding installation without a solid plan is like trying to bake a cake without a recipe – messy and potentially disastrous! Taking the time to plan and prepare will save you headaches (and possibly some choice words) down the road. This section will help you in your DIY projects and help you install crown molding easily.

Assessing the Walls: Know Thy Enemy

Before you even think about picking up a piece of molding, you NEED to know what you’re dealing with. It’s time to channel your inner detective and uncover those hidden wall imperfections.

  • Identifying High and Low Spots: Grab that long level or straight edge. Hold it against the wall and play “I Spy” with the gaps. Where does the light shine through? Those are your low spots. Where the level touches firmly, but there’s a noticeable gap on either side? High spots! Mark these areas with a pencil – you’ll need to remember where the trouble spots are.

  • Measuring Angles: Corners, corners, corners! They can be the bane of a crown molding installer’s existence. An angle finder (also known as a protractor) is your best friend here. Measure each corner carefully, because not all 90-degree angles are created equal (especially in older homes!). Jot down those measurements – you’ll need them when you fire up the miter saw. A digital protractor is recommended for taking an accurate measurement.

Planning the Installation: Charting Your Course

Now that you know the lay of the land (or, you know, the shape of your walls), it’s time to map out your installation strategy.

  • Creating a Layout: Don’t just wing it! Take some time to plan the order in which you’ll install the molding. Where will you start? Where will the seams be? More importantly, grab your stud finder and mark those studs! Nailing into studs is crucial for a secure and lasting installation. Imagine all that hard work coming crashing down – no, thank you!

  • Pre-Cutting Molding: This is where the magic (and math) happens! Based on your wall measurements, start pre-cutting your molding pieces. IMPORTANT: Always cut a little long! It’s far easier to trim off excess than to magically add length back on. When measuring for inside and outside corners, remember to account for the miter angles. There are a lot of online resources, and calculators that can assist with this. Do not guess, unless you want to throw away precious materials.

The Art of Adaptation: Installation Techniques for Uneven Surfaces

Alright, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty! You’ve prepped your walls, gathered your tools, and you’re ready to tackle the crown molding installation. But wait! Those pesky uneven walls are staring you down, right? No sweat! This is where the magic happens, where you transform from a DIY-er into a crown molding ninja.

Forget perfection. We’re aiming for “professionally imperfect” – that is, looks so good that people will think it’s perfect! And the secret weapons in your arsenal are: scribing, coping, and ~~shimming~~. These are the ancient arts (okay, maybe not ancient, but definitely time-tested) of making your crown molding dreams a reality, even when your walls are doing their best to sabotage you.

Scribing: Tracing the Unpredictable

So, your wall has a gentle, rolling curve? Meet scribing – the art of tracing that curve onto your molding for a near perfect fit!

  • How to Scribe: Imagine your wall is a celebrity, and you’re an autograph hound. A compass or profile gauge is your pen. Set the compass to the widest gap between the molding and the wall. Then, with the molding held in place, run the compass along the wall, transferring the wall’s wobbly contour onto the back of the molding. A profile gauge works similarly, capturing the wall’s shape with its pins. It’s like a 3D scan, but way less techy and more hands-on.
  • Cutting the Scribed Line: Now comes the delicate part. Using a coping saw (a jigsaw or even a Dremel can work in a pinch), carefully follow the line you just scribed. Angle the saw slightly backward to create a back bevel – this will help the molding sit even tighter against the wall. Patience is key here, folks. Think of it as therapy…or just try not to think at all!
  • When to Use Scribing: Scribing shines when you’re dealing with walls that have a consistent curve or bow, rather than sharp angles or dips. It’s all about matching that gentle flow.

Coping: Conquering the Corners

Inside corners are where the real fun begins. Instead of just butting two pieces of molding together (which works great with perfectly square corners, but who has those?), coping creates a joint that interlocks and hides imperfections.

  • Cutting the Cope: First, miter cut one piece of the molding at a 45-degree angle, as if you were creating a standard inside corner. This reveals the profile of the molding. Now, grab your coping saw and carefully cut along that profile, removing the waste material. Angle the saw backward, just like with scribing, to create a slight undercut. This will allow the cope to nestle perfectly against the adjoining piece.
  • Fine-Tuning the Fit: Even with the best coping saw skills, you might end up with a few little imperfections. That’s where a file or sandpaper comes in. Use them to gently refine the cope, removing any bumps or ridges that are preventing a snug fit. A little bit of tweaking can make a huge difference.
  • When to Use Coping: Coping is your go-to technique for inside corners, especially those that are not perfectly square (which is most of them, let’s be honest). It allows for adjustments and creates a much tighter, more professional-looking joint.

Shimming: The Art of Strategic Support

Sometimes, even with scribing and coping, you’ll still have small gaps between the molding and the wall or ceiling. That’s where shims come to the rescue, acting as secret agents to provide support and fill those voids.

  • Positioning Shims: Thin shims are your allies here! Slide them behind the molding at strategic points where gaps are visible. You can even use pieces of cardboard or thin wood. The goal is to create a solid, even surface for the molding to rest against.
  • Securing Shims: Once you’ve got the shims in the perfect position, secure them with construction adhesive or a few small finish nails. This will prevent them from shifting during installation.
  • When to Use Shims: Shims are best for those small, localized areas where the molding just refuses to sit flush. They’re also great for correcting slight angles and providing extra support where needed.

So there you have it! Scribing, coping, and shimming – the power trio for taming those troublesome, uneven walls. Armed with these techniques, a little patience, and a good sense of humor, you’ll be able to conquer any crown molding challenge. Now go forth and create some beautiful, almost perfect corners!

Step 1: First Piece, Best Impression

Alright, let’s get this show on the road! You’ve prepped, you’ve planned, and now it’s time to actually get some molding up on that wall. The first piece is crucial – it sets the tone for the entire project, so let’s make it count!

  • Finding the Sweet Spot: Before you even think about nailing, grab that stud finder and mark those studs like you’re staking a claim! Nailing into studs is key for a secure hold.
  • Adhesive Advantage: Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the back of the molding. This stuff is like a secret weapon, giving you extra grip on those uneven surfaces.

Step 2: Cornering the Market – Coping, Mitering, and a Little Bit of Magic

Corners. They can be the bane of a crown molding installer’s existence… or a chance to show off your skills. Let’s tackle these head-on:

  • Inside Corners : Coping is your best friend here, especially if those walls aren’t playing by the “perfect 90-degree angle” rule. Remember that beautiful cope you crafted? Slide that baby into place!

  • Outside Corners: Mitering is the classic approach. A precise cut is key, but don’t fret if it’s not perfect. We have tricks for that later! Pro Tip: Test the fit before applying adhesive or nailing.

  • The Hybrid Approach: Sometimes, a combo is best. Maybe one side of an inside corner is pretty close to square, so a miter works. The other side needs a cope. Be adaptable!

Step 3: Nailing It Down (Literally)

With your piece positioned and looking good, it’s hammer (or nail gun) time!

  • Stud Power: Aim those nails into those studs you so diligently marked earlier. This isn’t just about looks; it’s about structural integrity.

  • Angle Awareness: Angle your nails slightly, both up and down. This will help lock the molding in place against both the wall and the ceiling.

  • Nail Gun Nirvana (or Hammer Harmony): If you’re using a nail gun, dial down the pressure a bit to avoid sinking the nails too deep. If you prefer a hammer, use a nail set to countersink those nail heads.

Step 4: Level Up – Checking and Adjusting

Don’t get so caught up in nailing that you forget to step back and assess.

  • Level Love: Periodically check the level of your molding. Walls and ceilings can be sneaky devils, throwing you off course if you’re not vigilant.
  • Shimmy Shimmy Ya: If you spot a gap or a section that’s not quite flush, grab those shims! Slide them behind the molding until everything lines up nicely. Then, nail through the shim to secure it.

The Final Flourish: Turning Good into Gorgeous

Alright, you’ve wrestled that crown molding into place, battling uneven walls like a champ. But hold on, partner, we’re not quite ready to throw our hats in the air just yet. This is where we transform that “pretty good” installation into a jaw-dropping masterpiece. It’s time for the finishing touches that separate the DIY warriors from the seasoned pros! We’re talking about banishing those pesky gaps, and painting that molding to a sheen that would make a peacock jealous.

Filling Gaps: Caulk is Your New Best Friend

Let’s face it, even with the best scribing, coping, and shimming skills, you’re likely to have some tiny gaps. Don’t sweat it! Caulk is your secret weapon. Grab a tube of paintable caulk (because, trust me, you’ll want to paint it), and a caulk gun.

Here’s the lowdown on gap-filling:

  • Caulking 101: Cut the tip of the caulk tube at a 45-degree angle (start small, you can always cut more!). Load it into the gun, and gently squeeze the trigger to apply a thin, consistent bead of caulk along the gap. Immediately after, use a wet finger or a damp sponge to smooth the caulk and remove any excess. Think of it like icing a cake, but with less licking (resist the urge!).
  • Wood Filler to the Rescue: For those larger gaps that caulk just can’t handle, wood filler is your go-to. Apply the filler with a putty knife, slightly overfilling the gap. Once it’s completely dry, sand it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. The key is to blend the filler seamlessly with the molding.

Painting and Sealing: From Drab to Fab

Now for the grand finale! A fresh coat of paint can completely transform your crown molding. But before you start slinging paint, don’t skip the primer!

Prime Time! Primer is like a superhero base coat, creating a smooth surface for the paint to grip onto. It also helps to seal the wood or wood filler, preventing the paint from soaking in unevenly. Apply a coat of primer, let it dry completely, and lightly sand any imperfections.

Paint Like a Pro: Choose a high-quality paint in your desired color and sheen. Apply thin, even coats, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Avoid globs and drips – patience is key! For a super-smooth finish, consider using a fine-tipped paintbrush or even a sprayer for larger projects.

Seal the Deal (Optional): If your crown molding is in a bathroom or kitchen, where moisture is a concern, consider applying a sealant after painting. This will help protect the paint from water damage and keep your crown molding looking its best for years to come. You could use a clear, water-based sealant or a paintable caulk.

There you have it! With these finishing touches, your crown molding will be the envy of the neighborhood. Stand back, admire your handiwork, and pat yourself on the back – you’ve earned it!

Safety First: We’re Not Trying to Redecorate the ER, Okay?

Alright, let’s talk about safety – because nobody wants a crown molding project to end with a trip to the emergency room. Trust me, a beautifully adorned room loses its charm real quick when you’re nursing a cut or a strained back. So, let’s keep those DIY disaster stories off the internet, shall we?

Personal Protective Equipment: Dress for Success (…and Survival)

Think of this as your superhero outfit, but instead of saving the world, you’re conquering crown molding.

  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses. Wear them. Always. It’s like flossing; you know you should, and you’ll regret it if you don’t. Flying sawdust is not a good look, and neither is a splinter in your cornea. Seriously, those little wood missiles are relentless.
  • Dust Masks: Breathing in sawdust is like inviting a tiny lumberjack convention into your lungs. A good dust mask keeps those unwanted guests out. Plus, you’ll avoid that charming “I just ate a woodpile” look. No one wants that.
  • Gloves: Hands are important. We need them for things like holding tools, high-fiving successful crown molding installations, and, you know, everyday stuff like eating. Protect them with gloves!

Safe Practices: Play It Smart, Not Hard

Let’s keep all our fingers and toes where they belong, shall we?

  • Ladder Safety: Ladders are not jungle gyms. Make sure your ladder is stable and on a level surface. Don’t lean too far – it’s better to move the ladder than to recreate a circus balancing act. A fall from a ladder can turn your crown molding dreams into a hospital visit nightmare.
  • Tool Safety: Power tools are fantastic—until they aren’t. Read the manual (yes, really). Understand how your tools work and respect their power. Keep your fingers away from blades and moving parts. Pretend they’re covered in hot sauce, if that helps.
  • WARNING: This is important so let’s put in bold and underline: __Always disconnect power before working near electrical wires.__ Messing with electricity is a surefire way to turn your DIY project into a shocking experience – literally. Turn off the breaker! It’s not worth the risk, and you’ll have a higher survival rate. Seriously, electricity is not your friend.

Dealing with the Ceiling: Taming the Upstairs Neighbor

Ah, the ceiling – that often-overlooked plane that can throw a real wrench into your crown molding dreams! It’s easy to focus on the walls, but trust me, the ceiling has its own agenda. Let’s be real: how many of us can honestly say our ceilings are perfectly, flawlessly level? Didn’t think so. So, before you even think about nailing that first piece of crown molding, let’s talk ceiling etiquette.

Level vs. Unlevel: Decoding the Ceiling’s Secret

First things first, we need to figure out if our ceiling is playing nice or if it’s a bit of a rebel. Grab that trusty level (the longer, the better) and hold it up against the ceiling, right where your crown molding is going to sit. If the bubble is smack-dab in the middle, congratulations! You’ve got a relatively level ceiling (go buy a lottery ticket, quick!).

But, more often than not, you’ll see that bubble tilting one way or another. That means your ceiling isn’t perfectly level in relation to your walls. No sweat! It just means we need to put on our thinking caps and get a little creative. Don’t panic if it’s off—it’s more common than you might think. The key is to identify just how far off-level you’re working with.

Accounting for Discrepancies: Making it All Work

So, the ceiling is a little tipsy? No problem. Here’s where our arsenal of tricks comes in:

  • Scribing: Remember that technique we talked about for uneven walls? It can work wonders on the ceiling too! If you have a section that’s off, use your compass or profile gauge to transfer the ceiling’s curve onto the back of the crown molding. Then, carefully cut along that line for a snug fit.
  • Shimming: These little wonders are your best friends when you need to fill gaps caused by an uneven ceiling. Simply slide shims behind the molding where it’s not quite touching the ceiling, adding them until the molding sits nice and flush. Secure them with a bit of construction adhesive or small nails.
  • Flexible Caulk: Think of caulk as the ultimate concealer. It’s fantastic for blending any slight imperfections where the crown molding meets the ceiling. Choose a paintable caulk so it disappears seamlessly once you’ve applied your final coat of paint. Don’t be afraid to use it generously in areas where the fit isn’t perfect.
  • Embrace the Imperfection: Sometimes, trying to achieve absolute perfection is a losing battle. Instead of fighting the ceiling, consider making slight adjustments to the crown molding itself. A subtle change in angle or a tiny bit of extra caulk can often create the illusion of a perfectly level ceiling.

Remember, the goal is to create a visually appealing result, not necessarily to achieve mathematical perfection. With a little bit of patience and these techniques, you can absolutely conquer even the most unruly ceiling and create a beautiful, professional-looking crown molding installation.

Troubleshooting: Common Problems and Solutions

Let’s face it, even with the best-laid plans and the sharpest saw, things can go sideways. Don’t sweat it! Installing crown molding isn’t always a walk in the park, especially when those pesky walls decide to throw a curveball. Here are some common hiccups and how to fix them, because nobody wants to live with crooked crown molding, right?

The Grand Canyon Gap

Problem: You’ve got gaps between the molding and the wall or ceiling so big, you could practically lose a small pet in there. Caulk just ain’t gonna cut it.

Solution: Time to bring in the heavy artillery!

  1. Wood Filler to the Rescue: For gaps that aren’t enormous, wood filler is your friend. Pack that stuff in there, let it dry completely, and then sand it smooth. Prime and paint, and voilà, the gap is gone!
  2. Backer Rod is Your Buddy: For those truly monstrous gaps, backer rod is the secret weapon. This foam cord fills the bulk of the space, giving your caulk something to grab onto and preventing it from sinking into the abyss. Push it into the gap, leaving enough room for a layer of caulk on top.

The Molding Just Won’t Cooperate Conundrum

Problem: Your crown molding is playing hard to get and refuses to sit flush against the wall. It’s sticking out like a sore thumb, and no amount of pushing seems to help.

Solution: Shimmy shimmy ya, shimmy yay! Okay, maybe don’t actually dance with the molding (unless you’re really feeling it), but shims are the key here.

  1. Strategic Shim Placement: Slide shims behind the molding where it’s not making contact with the wall. You might need to experiment with the placement to find the sweet spot that brings the molding flush.
  2. Secure Those Shims: Once you’ve got the molding sitting pretty, secure the shims with a dab of construction adhesive or a few carefully placed finish nails. Break off any excess shim that is sticking out.

Corner Calamities:

Problem: Those corner joints are just not lining up, leaving you with unsightly gaps and a whole lot of frustration. Yikes!

Solution: Sometimes, you’ve just got to admit defeat and try again.

  1. The Re-Cut Remedy: If the misalignment is slight, try carefully re-cutting one or both pieces of molding. A tiny adjustment can make a world of difference. Remember the old saying “measure twice, cut once” (or maybe even three or four times for those tricky corners!).
  2. Flexible Caulk to the Rescue (Again!): If a re-cut isn’t an option, or the misalignment is minimal, flexible caulk can work its magic. Apply a bead of caulk to the joint, smooth it out with your finger, and wipe away any excess. Choose a paintable caulk so you can blend it seamlessly with the molding.

So, don’t let those wonky walls intimidate you! With a little patience and these tricks up your sleeve, you can totally nail that crown moulding installation and give your room the stylish upgrade it deserves. Happy moulding!