Basement Insulation: CMU Walls & Best Practices

Understanding the nuances of basement insulation is essential, as the right approach significantly impacts energy efficiency and comfort. Concrete Masonry Units (CMU) walls, commonly found in basements, are porous and can transmit moisture, therefore selecting rigid foam insulation for its moisture resistance and thermal properties becomes critical. Pairing spray foam, known for its ability to seal gaps, with fiberglass batts, which offer cost-effectiveness, can optimize thermal performance while managing costs and preventing moisture-related issues, ultimately creating a more habitable and energy-efficient below-grade space.

Alright, let’s talk about those humble concrete block walls, or CMUs as the cool kids call them. You’ve probably seen them everywhere. They’re like the unsung heroes of construction, quietly forming the foundations and walls of everything from homes and garages to commercial buildings and even your friendly neighborhood gym. They’re strong, they’re durable, and they get the job done.

But here’s the thing: on their own, CMU walls are about as good at keeping you comfy as a screen door in winter. That’s where insulation swoops in to save the day! Insulating those CMU walls is a total game-changer when it comes to energy efficiency. Think lower heating and cooling bills – who doesn’t want to save some dough? But it’s not just about the money. Insulation also seriously boosts your comfort levels. No more chilly walls in the winter or sweltering heat radiating in the summer. It’s like wrapping your building in a cozy blanket, all year round.

Now, let’s not forget about moisture control. Uninsulated CMU walls can be a breeding ground for dampness, which leads to unpleasant things like mold and mildew. Yuck! Insulation helps prevent condensation and keeps those walls nice and dry.

Without insulation, you’re basically inviting a whole host of problems into your space. Imagine sky-high energy bills that make you want to cry, that awful damp feeling, and maybe even a sneaky mold colony setting up shop behind your walls. Double yuck!

But fear not! There are several ways to insulate those CMU walls and win the war against discomfort and inefficiency. We’ll briefly touch on the different types of insulation you can use, from rigid foam to spray foam, and some key things to consider before you even pick up a hammer (or call a pro). So, stick around – it’s time to show those CMU walls some insulation love!

Contents

Assessing Your Concrete Block Walls: A Crucial First Step

Okay, so you’re thinking about insulating those concrete block walls (CMU). Smart move! But before you grab your insulation and start stapling (please don’t actually staple insulation to concrete), let’s take a sec to give your walls a little check-up. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t build a house on a shaky foundation, right? Same goes for insulation. Slapping insulation on a wall with underlying issues is like putting a band-aid on a broken leg – it just won’t fix the problem. A thorough assessment is key to making sure your insulation project is a success from the get-go.

Checking for Structural Issues: Are Your Walls Solid?

Time to channel your inner detective! We’re looking for anything that screams “Uh oh, Houston, we have a problem!” First up: cracks. Are they hairline fractures or gaping canyons? Map them out! And don’t ignore those weird, white, powdery deposits. That’s efflorescence, folks, and it’s a telltale sign of moisture seeping through the concrete. Think of it as the wall’s way of crying for help…or maybe just sweating a lot.

Why do these things happen? Well, water is a sneaky culprit. It can infiltrate through cracks, causing the concrete to expand and contract, leading to more cracks. Ground movement (like settling) can also put stress on the walls. These structural hiccups need to be addressed before you even think about insulation. Imagine insulating a wall that’s slowly crumbling! You’d be trapping moisture inside and accelerating the damage. Not cool.

Testing for Moisture: Are They Dry Enough?

Alright, Sherlock, grab your gadgets! A moisture meter is your best friend here. These nifty devices can tell you how much moisture is lurking inside those concrete blocks. You’ll want to check various spots on the walls, especially near the ground or in areas where you suspect leaks.

So, what’s the magic number? What’s an acceptable moisture level for CMU walls? Generally, you want to see readings below a certain threshold (check the moisture meter’s manual for specific guidelines, typically under 4% for concrete). If the meter’s needle is bouncing into the danger zone, hold up! Insulating damp walls is a recipe for disaster. You’re basically creating a breeding ground for mold and mildew, which can lead to health problems and costly repairs down the road. Plus, moisture degrades insulation, turning your energy-saving investment into a soggy mess. Trust me; you do not want this!

Addressing Moisture Intrusion: A Prerequisite for Success

Alright, picture this: You’re all set to wrap your CMU walls in a cozy blanket of insulation, ready to save some serious cash on those energy bills and finally ditch that drafty feeling. But hold up! Before you dive headfirst into the insulation pool, there’s a sneaky gremlin you gotta deal with first: moisture. Think of it as the uninvited party guest that can ruin everything. So, let’s roll up our sleeves and get to the bottom of this damp dilemma, shall we?

Identifying Sources of Moisture

Moisture in CMU walls is like a detective novel – you gotta sniff out the clues to find the culprit. Common suspects include:

Groundwater: Rising up through the foundation like a persistent weed. Imagine your walls slowly soaking up water from the earth – not a pretty picture, right?
Rainwater: Leaking through cracks, faulty gutters, or poor landscaping. Think of those heavy downpours finding every tiny opening to sneak in.
Condensation: Forming on the inside of the walls due to temperature differences. Ever see that sweat on a cold glass of lemonade? Same idea, but inside your walls!

So, how do you play detective? Start with a visual inspection. Look for telltale signs like:

Water stains: Obvious discoloration indicating where water has been.
Efflorescence: That white, powdery stuff that looks like someone spilled powdered donuts on your wall. It’s actually salt deposits left behind by evaporating water.
Mold or mildew: Nasty stuff that loves damp, dark places. If you see it, you’ve got a moisture problem, Houston.

Remediation Steps

Okay, so you’ve identified the moisture menace. Now it’s time to kick it to the curb with some serious remediation steps:

Sealing cracks and joints with appropriate sealants: Think of this as patching up the holes in your armor. Use a good quality sealant designed for concrete to prevent water from seeping in. It is imperative to seal up the structure before going any further.
Improving drainage around the foundation: Make sure rainwater flows away from your house, not towards it. That might mean cleaning out gutters, extending downspouts, or re-grading the landscape. Think about how your house is situated and make sure the water will not go toward the foundation.
Installing a waterproof membrane on the exterior (if applicable): This is like giving your foundation a raincoat. A waterproof membrane will prevent moisture from penetrating the walls from the outside. Think about this as an insurance policy for your foundation.
Using a dehumidifier to reduce indoor humidity levels: If condensation is the culprit, a dehumidifier can help dry out the air and prevent moisture from forming on the walls. You’d be surprised how many issues get resolved by using a dehumidifier.

Addressing moisture issues is crucial. Insulating over damp walls is like putting a bandage on a festering wound – it might hide the problem for a while, but it’ll only get worse in the long run. So, take the time to tackle the moisture monster head-on before moving on to the insulation fun. Your walls (and your wallet) will thank you for it.

Insulation Options for Concrete Block Walls: A Detailed Comparison

Alright, so you’ve decided to take on those concrete block walls – smart move! Now comes the fun part (okay, maybe slightly fun): figuring out what kind of insulation to use. Think of it like picking the right filling for a super-powered energy-saving sandwich. Let’s break down the contenders, shall we?

Rigid Foam Insulation: The Solid Choice

Extruded Polystyrene (XPS): This is the tough guy of the rigid foam world. XPS boasts a high R-value (meaning it’s a great insulator), and it’s seriously moisture resistant. Think of it as the waterproof jacket for your walls. It’s often used in below-grade applications due to its moisture resilience.
Expanded Polystyrene (EPS): EPS is the cost-effective and versatile option. It comes in different densities, so you can choose the level of insulation you need. It’s like the “choose your own adventure” of insulation. However, it’s not as moisture-resistant as XPS.
Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso): If you’re looking for the insulation equivalent of a superhero, Polyiso is it. It has a very high R-value per inch, making it great for maximizing insulation in tight spaces. Plus, it’s pretty fire resistant, which is always a good thing. It’s the go-to for areas where space is at a premium and fire safety is paramount.

Pros and Cons:

Insulation Type	Cost	R-Value	Moisture Resistance	Environmental Impact
XPS	Moderate	High	Excellent	Can have a higher
				environmental impact
EPS	Low	Moderate	Fair	Varies
Polyiso	High	Very High	Good	Can be expensive

How to Install: Rigid foam can be glued directly to the CMU wall with adhesive or attached mechanically with fasteners. This option provides a continuous layer of insulation, reducing thermal bridging.

Spray Foam Insulation: The Sealant Extraordinaire

Closed-Cell Spray Foam: This stuff is like the ultimate air-sealing champion. It has a high R-value and acts as a fantastic vapor barrier. Plus, it adds structural support to your walls. It’s like giving your CMU walls a super-powered hug, making them stronger and more energy-efficient.
Open-Cell Spray Foam: Open-cell is the more affordable option. It has a lower R-value than closed-cell, but it’s great at filling irregular cavities and providing sound insulation. Think of it as the “fill every nook and cranny” option.

Benefits of Closed-Cell in CMU Walls: Besides the amazing R-value and vapor barrier properties, closed-cell spray foam also helps prevent water penetration and can add significant structural integrity to the wall.

Application: Spray foam application is best left to the pros. They have the equipment and know-how to apply it correctly. Improper application can lead to issues, so trust the experts on this one.

Mineral Wool Insulation: The Natural Defender

Mineral wool, in batt form, is like the eco-friendly warrior of the insulation world. It’s made from natural materials and offers great fire resistance, sound insulation, and moisture resistance. It’s a great all-around choice.

Installation: Mineral wool batts are typically installed with furring strips to create a cavity within the CMU wall. This provides an air gap and space for the insulation.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide: Insulating Your CMU Walls

Alright, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty! You’ve prepped, you’ve planned, and now it’s time to roll up those sleeves and get this insulation installed! Think of this as building a cozy sweater for your concrete block walls—let’s make sure it fits just right.

Preparing the Wall Surface: Cleanliness is Next to Insulation!

First things first: cleaning. Imagine trying to stick something to a dusty old shelf – it just won’t work, right? Same goes for your CMU walls. Grab a stiff brush, maybe even a vacuum with a brush attachment, and get rid of all that dirt, dust, cobwebs (spiders need to find a new home, sorry!), and any loose debris. A clean surface ensures that whatever you’re sticking to it actually sticks! And pro-tip: make absolutely sure the wall is bone-dry before you even think about moving on. Dampness is the enemy of insulation—it’s like inviting mold to a party.

Attaching Furring Strips/Framing: Building the Skeleton!

Think of furring strips as the skeleton for your new insulated wall. They create that essential cavity for the insulation to snuggle into, plus they give you something to attach your drywall (or whatever fancy wall finish you’ve picked out) to. You’ve got a choice here: wood or metal. Wood is usually cheaper and easier to work with for most DIYers (just make sure it’s treated to resist rot and insects, especially in damp basements!). Metal is more durable and won’t warp, but it can be a bit trickier to cut and attach.

Now, spacing is key. Typically, you’ll want to space those furring strips 16 or 24 inches apart, depending on the width of your drywall. Use a level! No one wants a wavy wall! Attach those strips securely to the CMU wall with concrete screws or construction adhesive.

Installing the Insulation: Snug as a Bug!

Time to get your hands dirty with the insulation itself. Measure the spaces between your furring strips carefully, and then cut your chosen insulation material (rigid foam, mineral wool, whatever you’re rolling with) to fit snugly. You want a nice, tight fit – no gaps allowed! Remember, those gaps are where drafts and moisture can sneak in, undoing all your hard work.

Depending on the type of insulation, you might use construction adhesive, fasteners, or even just friction to hold it in place. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the best results. Don’t be afraid to get creative to make everything fit as perfect as possible.

Installing a Vapor Barrier/Retarder: The Moisture Cop!

Okay, this step is crucial. A vapor barrier (or vapor retarder, depending on your climate) is there to control moisture diffusion—basically, it stops water vapor from getting into your wall cavity and causing problems. In colder climates, you typically want the vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall (that’s the inside).

Options include polyethylene film, which is cheap and effective, or even a vapor-retardant paint. Whatever you choose, apply it carefully, overlapping the seams by a few inches and sealing everything with tape or sealant. Any little hole is a potential entry point for moisture, and we don’t want that.

Finishing the Wall: The Grand Finale!

Almost there! Now it’s time to install your drywall or other wall finishing over the furring strips. Make sure your drywall is moisture-resistant, especially if you’re working in a basement or other damp environment.

Finally, seal up any gaps around windows, doors, pipes, wires – anything that pokes through the wall. Use caulk or sealant to create an airtight barrier. Those little gaps are sneaky air-leak culprits.

Environmental Factors to Consider When Insulating CMU Walls: Let’s Get Earthy!

Alright, let’s talk about Mother Nature because she definitely has opinions on your insulation project! Ignoring your local environment is like wearing a parka in the desert – totally counterproductive and probably a bit sweaty.

Climate Zone Considerations: Are You Chilling or Boiling?

First up, climate. Whether you’re braving polar vortexes or basking in perpetual sunshine, your insulation strategy needs to adjust. Think of it like this: a penguin and a camel have very different wardrobe needs, right?

Hot Climates: Focus on reflecting heat away. Aim for insulation that resists heat transfer from the outside in. Lower R-values might be sufficient, but consider reflective barriers.
Cold Climates: You’re in heat-retention mode! Higher R-values are your best friends to keep that cozy warmth inside where it belongs.
Mixed Climates: Welcome to the confusing middle ground. You’ll need to strike a balance. Research what works best for both hot and cold seasons in your area.

R-Value Recommendations: Don’t just guess! Local building codes are your BFFs here. They’ll have specific R-value recommendations for your area based on your climate. Check your local codes, they are the rule!

Soil Moisture and the Water Table: Keeping the Wet Stuff Out!

Next, let’s dig into what’s happening beneath your feet. Soil moisture is no joke, especially around your foundation.

Managing Soil Moisture: Proper drainage is key. Make sure rainwater flows away from your foundation and consider extending your downspouts. Think of it as giving the water a clear path away from your precious CMU walls.
High Water Table: Imagine your basement is basically a submarine. A high water table means more potential for moisture to seep into your walls. If your area is prone to flooding or has a naturally high water table, extra waterproofing measures are a must before even thinking about insulation.

Radon Gas: The Invisible Intruder

Okay, time for a slightly scary but important topic: radon. This invisible, odorless gas is a naturally occurring byproduct of uranium decay in the soil. It can seep into your home through cracks in the foundation, and prolonged exposure can increase your risk of lung cancer. Yikes!

Radon Testing: Test, test, test! Get a radon test kit before and after insulating your CMU walls. It’s a simple process, and the peace of mind is worth it.
Mitigation Strategies: If radon levels are high, don’t panic! There are mitigation systems that can vent the gas away from your home. Common solutions involve sub-slab depressurization, which sucks the radon from underneath the foundation and vents it safely outdoors. A radon mitigation professional can assess your situation and recommend the best approach.

Building Codes and Regulations: Ensuring Compliance

Okay, so you’re pumped to insulate those concrete block walls and create a cozy haven, right? Awesome! But hold your horses (or your insulation knife) for just a sec. We need to talk about the not-so-glamorous, but super important world of building codes and regulations. Think of them as the “rules of the road” for home improvement, ensuring everything’s safe, sound, and won’t land you in hot water with the local authorities.

You see, insulation isn’t just about slapping some foam on the wall and calling it a day. Nope, there are codes in place designed to make sure your project is energy-efficient, fire-safe, and doesn’t turn your house into a breeding ground for mold (yikes!). These codes cover things like minimum R-values (that’s the insulation’s resistance to heat flow), fire-resistant materials, and proper ventilation. They’re basically there to protect you, your home, and maybe even your neighbors! So, don’t even THINK about skipping this step.

Adhering to local building codes and obtaining necessary permits is absolutely vital. Each state, even city, often has their own sets of guidelines and rules. Make sure you obtain the necessary approvals and permissions before starting any insulation work. It can save you from costly fines, project delays, and the headache of redoing everything.

Consulting with building inspectors is a really smart move. They’re the pros who know these codes inside and out, and they can guide you through the process, ensuring your project meets all the requirements. Think of them as your friendly neighborhood building code gurus. Getting their input early can prevent major headaches down the road. After all, it’s better to be safe (and code-compliant) than sorry!

DIY or Hire a Pro? Navigating the Concrete Jungle of Insulation Decisions

So, you’re staring at your stark, concrete block walls and dreaming of toasty toes and lower energy bills, huh? Excellent! But before you grab your trusty hammer and a roll of insulation, let’s have a real talk about whether you should DIY this project or call in the cavalry (a.k.a., the professionals). Trust me, this isn’t a decision to take lightly, unless you really enjoy unexpected trips to the hardware store at 9 PM on a Sunday.

When to Call in the Pros: Avoiding the Insulation “Oops!”

Alright, let’s be honest. Some things are best left to the experts. Think of it like performing your own root canal—possible, maybe, but probably not a great idea. Here are a few red flags waving frantically, screaming, “Hire a professional!”:

Moisture Mysteries: If you’ve got water weeping from your walls like they’re watching a sad movie, stop right there. Seriously. Address the moisture intrusion with pros before you even think about insulation. Trapping moisture inside your walls is a recipe for mold and a whole lot of regret. Don’t do it!
Spray Foam Shenanigans: Spray foam insulation is fantastic when done right. But it requires specialized equipment and a delicate touch. Mess it up, and you could end up with off-gassing issues, uneven coverage, or, worse, a foam explosion that would make your home look like a bizarre sci-fi movie set. Leave it to the pros, seriously.
Structural Stresses: Noticed some cracks that are wider than your pinky? Or perhaps your walls are leaning like they’re trying to escape? Address those structural issues before you even think about insulating! This is a job for a general contractor or structural engineer, not your trusty DIY spirit.
DIY-phobia: Hey, no shame in admitting it! If the thought of power tools makes you break out in a cold sweat, or if you’re more comfortable ordering takeout than tackling home improvement, hire a professional. Your sanity (and your walls) will thank you.
Building Codes: This is very important, check your local area and state requirements.

Who Are These Professionals Anyway?

Good question! Here’s a quick rundown of the players you might encounter in the CMU insulation game:

Insulation Contractors: These are your bread-and-butter insulation specialists. They’ll assess your needs, recommend the right materials, and install them with precision.
General Contractors: Need to address structural issues or manage a larger renovation project? A general contractor is your point person.
Building Inspectors: These folks are the gatekeepers of code compliance. Consulting with them before and during your project can save you headaches down the road.
Energy Auditors: Want a deep dive into your home’s energy performance? An energy auditor can identify areas for improvement and recommend the most effective insulation strategies.

Why Go Pro? The Perks of Professional Insulation

Okay, so maybe you’re still on the fence. Here’s a little nudge toward the professional side:

Installation Nirvana: Pros do this for a living. They know the tricks of the trade, the best techniques, and the most efficient methods to ensure your insulation is installed correctly, maximizing its performance and lifespan.
Code Compliance Confidence: Navigating building codes can feel like trying to decipher ancient hieroglyphs. Pros know the ins and outs, ensuring your project meets all the necessary requirements and avoids costly fines or rework.
Tool Time Savers: Spray foam rigs, insulation blowers, and other specialized equipment? Pros have them all. Renting or buying these tools can be expensive and time-consuming, making professional installation a more economical option in the long run.
Peace of Mind Paradise: Let’s face it, home improvement projects can be stressful. Hiring a pro takes the burden off your shoulders, allowing you to relax and enjoy the process (or, you know, binge-watch your favorite show while they work their magic). Plus, many offer warranties on their work, giving you added assurance that your investment is protected.

The Verdict?

Insulating your concrete block walls can be a rewarding project, but it’s crucial to assess your skills, the complexity of the job, and your budget before making a decision. If you’re dealing with moisture issues, spray foam, or structural concerns, or if you simply lack the time or expertise, hiring a professional is the smartest move. But if you’re a seasoned DIYer with a straightforward project and a can-do attitude, you might just be able to tackle it yourself. Just be sure to do your research, follow best practices, and prioritize safety every step of the way. Good luck!

Safety First: Protecting Yourself During the Insulation Process

Okay, folks, let’s talk safety. I know, I know, it’s not the most exciting part of a DIY project, but trust me, ending up in the ER is way less fun than spending an extra 15 minutes prepping for safety. We’re dealing with potential irritants, heights, and power tools here, so let’s keep all our fingers and eyeballs intact, alright?

Essential Safety Equipment: Your Superhero Suit

Think of safety gear as your DIY superhero suit. First up, safety glasses. Not your everyday sunglasses, but proper eye protection to shield your peepers from flying debris. Insulation projects can get messy, and you don’t want rogue particles making a home in your eyeballs.

Next, gloves. Your hands are going to be doing a lot of work, and insulation materials can be irritating, not to mention the chemicals in some adhesives or sealants. A good pair of gloves will keep your skin happy and prevent any unwanted reactions.

And finally, a dust mask or respirator. This is super important, especially when dealing with fiberglass or spray foam insulation. You do NOT want to be breathing in those tiny particles. A good mask will filter out the nasties and keep your lungs happy. If you’re dealing with spray foam, a proper respirator is a must, no exceptions.

Fresh Air is Your Friend: Ventilation, Ventilation, Ventilation!

Ever walked into a room filled with strong fumes and felt your head start to spin? Yeah, not a good time. Proper ventilation is key when working with chemicals like adhesives, sealants, or spray foam. Open windows, use fans, and if necessary, work outside to ensure you’re not breathing in harmful fumes. Think of it as giving your lungs a spa day, but instead of cucumber water, it’s fresh air.

Don’t Be a Tightrope Walker: Ladder Safety 101

Unless you’re a circus performer, chances are you’re not a pro at balancing on ladders. So, let’s keep it safe, shall we? Always use a sturdy ladder that’s tall enough for the job, and make sure it’s placed on a level surface. Don’t overreach – move the ladder instead. And for goodness sake, don’t try to carry heavy loads up the ladder. Get a helper or use a rope to lift materials up. Your bones will thank you.

Tools and Materials Checklist: Getting Prepared

Alright, DIY warriors, before we even think about wrestling with insulation, let’s make sure we’ve got our arsenal ready. Nothing’s worse than being halfway through a project and realizing you’re missing a crucial tool. It’s like showing up to a sword fight with a butter knife – not ideal! This checklist is your secret weapon for a smooth insulation mission.

Essential Tools: Your DIY Dream Team

Think of these as the Avengers of your toolkit. You absolutely need these guys on your side.

Utility Knife: The sharpest tool in the shed. Get one with plenty of extra blades. You’ll be slicing through insulation like a hot knife through butter (hopefully without actually involving butter).
Saw: For those furring strips. A circular saw or hand saw will do the trick, depending on how you like to get your saw on. Just make sure it’s sharp enough to cut straight!
Caulking Gun: This bad boy is your defense against air leaks and moisture. Load it up with sealant and caulk like you mean it!
Drill: Drill Sergeant, reporting for duty! You’ll need this to attach furring strips, insulation boards, and pretty much everything else. Make sure you have a variety of drill bits.
Hammer: Sometimes, you just need to hammer things home. (Pun intended, obviously.)
Screws/Fasteners: It’s like peanut butter with jelly, drills with screws; you can’t have one without the other.
Moisture Meter: Your detective tool. Essential for checking if your CMU blocks are dry enough to insulate. Damp blocks are a big no-no!
Measuring Tape: Before you cut anything, measure twice. You will be glad you did and it’s a lot less wasteful.

Materials List: Choose Your Insulation Adventure

The materials you need will depend on the insulation method you choose. Let’s break it down:

For Rigid Foam:
- Rigid foam boards (XPS, EPS, or Polyiso) in the correct thickness and R-value.
- Construction adhesive specifically designed for foam boards. Avoid solvent-based adhesives, as they can damage the foam.
- Fasteners (if using mechanical fastening) – look for those made of plastic to prevent thermal bridging.
For Spray Foam:
- Spray foam insulation kit (if DIYing small areas) or access to a professional spray foam rig. Seriously, consider hiring a pro for this one, unless you’re a seasoned spray foam artist.
- Safety gear for spray foam application (respirator, gloves, protective suit – this stuff is nasty!).
For Mineral Wool:
- Mineral wool batts in the correct width and thickness.
- Furring strips (wood or metal).
- Screws or nails for attaching furring strips.
- Vapor barrier (polyethylene film or vapor-retardant paint).
- Vapor barrier tape for sealing seams.

Don’t Forget the Extras!

Safety Glasses: No one wants insulation fibers in their eyes. Trust me.
Gloves: Protect your precious hands.
Dust Mask/Respirator: Breathing in insulation dust is not a fun experience.
Sealant/Caulk: For sealing gaps and cracks.
Drywall/Wall Finishing: To cover up the insulation and make your walls look pretty again.
Ladders: Depending on your project height, but safety first!
Drop Cloth: To prevent damages to floor and make it easier to clean up!

So, there you have it! Insulating those basement walls might seem like a drag, but trust me, future you will thank you – especially when you’re rocking cozy socks and a t-shirt in the middle of winter. Happy insulating!