A portable generator represents a reliable solution for homeowners during power outages. Simultaneously, the need to operate two furnaces in colder climates places a high demand on power sources. Ensuring that a portable generator is capable of handling the electrical load of both furnaces requires careful consideration of its power output and surge capacity. This is particularly crucial for maintaining consistent heating and preventing frozen pipes.
Staying Warm When the Lights Go Out: A Generator Story
Okay, picture this: the snow’s coming down harder than your Aunt Mildred’s fruitcake during the holidays, the power lines are swaying like they’re doing the limbo, and suddenly—bam!—everything goes dark. Now, if you’re only dealing with a flickering candle and a spooky shadow puppet show, that’s one thing. But when you’re staring down the barrel of two residential furnaces going cold turkey in the dead of winter, that’s a whole different ballgame. We’re talking frozen pipes, shivering pets, and a plummeting thermostat that’s edging dangerously close to “penguin habitat.”
That’s where the humble, but mighty, portable generator comes in. It’s your knight in shining armor, ready to roar to life and keep the home fires burning (literally!). However, hooking up a generator to two furnaces isn’t as simple as plugging in your toaster. It’s more like conducting an orchestra – you need to know your instruments, read the score, and conduct with precision.
Safety First, Warmth Second
Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of wattage, voltage, and fuel types, let’s get one thing crystal clear: Safety is Paramount. Messing with electricity is serious business, and a single misstep can turn your winter wonderland into a hazardous zone quicker than you can say “frostbite.” We are talking about electrical dangers as much as CO2 dangers. So, before you even think about flipping a switch, promise yourself that you’ll approach this project with meticulous planning and a healthy dose of caution. No shortcuts, no guesswork, and definitely no “winging it.”
The Unsung Hero: Your Carbon Monoxide Detector
And speaking of safety, let’s talk about the unsung hero of generator operation: The Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector. I’m talking the MVP, the closer, the “can’t leave home without it” kind of essential. Carbon monoxide is an invisible, odorless gas that can be produced by generators and, if it builds up in your home, it can be deadly. Think of it as a silent ninja assassin. A working CO detector is not optional – it’s your lifeline, your early warning system, and your best friend in the fight against this deadly gas. Make sure you have one (or several!) installed and working properly before you even think about firing up that generator. Seriously, this isn’t just a recommendation; it’s a life-saving necessity.
Decoding the Power Puzzle: How to Calculate Your Generator Needs Like a Pro
Alright, so you’re staring down the barrel of winter, two furnaces humming (or about to hum!), and the looming threat of a power outage. Relax, we’ve all been there! But before you rush out and buy the biggest, baddest generator you can find, let’s talk numbers. Getting the right size generator isn’t just about bragging rights; it’s about safety, efficiency, and keeping your toes warm when the lights go out. This starts with a spot-on Load Calculation. Think of it as your generator sizing cheat sheet!
Wattage Wonders: Unmasking Your Furnace’s Appetite
Time to play detective! Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to uncover the wattage demands of each of your valiant residential furnaces. First stop? The nameplate, usually plastered somewhere on the unit itself. It’s like the furnace’s driver’s license, packed with vital stats. Look for the wattage rating or, if you only see amps and volts, whip out your calculator! (Wattage = Volts x Amps). Don’t be shy about checking online resources for your furnace model, that’s a gold mine!
Surge Power Secrets: Taming the Starting Beast
Now, here’s a sneaky curveball: Surge Power, also known as Starting Surge. Furnaces, like grumpy teenagers, need an extra jolt of energy to get moving. This is a temporary surge of power that’s significantly higher than their running wattage. If you ignore this, you will end up with a generator that cannot start your furnaces, leaving you in the cold literally. A generator needs to handle this Starting Surge. Look for the Locked Rotor Amps (LRA) on the motor. Multiply this with Voltage to get Surge Watts. This factor will significantly impact the generator size and Surge Power/Starting Surge.
Voltage and Amperage Tango: A Match Made in Electrical Heaven
Think of Voltage and Amperage as partners in an electrical tango. If they’re out of sync, things can get ugly – we’re talking tripped breakers, damaged equipment, or even fire hazards. Make sure the generator’s voltage matches what your furnaces demand. Your furnace will run with its designed voltage, which is mostly 120V in north America. Amperage also needs to be checked to ensure the cords and generator outlets you will be using are rated to meet that demand.
Fuel Frenzy: Gasoline, Propane, or Diesel?
The final piece of the puzzle: Fuel Type. Gasoline, Propane, and Diesel, each have their own quirks.
- Gasoline: Readily available, but can be pricey and prone to degrading during storage.
- Propane: Burns cleaner and stores well, but you’ll need a separate tank and potentially a conversion kit.
- Diesel: Fuel efficient and reliable, but diesel generators tend to be pricier and noisier.
Consider cost, availability, storage, and even the environmental impact when making your choice.
Generator Types: Inverter vs. Conventional—Which One Can Handle the Furnace Frenzy?
Okay, so you’re looking at generators and probably feeling like you’re deciphering ancient hieroglyphics. No worries, we’ll break it down! When it comes to powering those hungry furnaces, you’ve basically got two main contenders: the Inverter Generator and the Conventional Generator. Let’s see which one is the real MVP.
Inverter Generator: The Quiet, Tech-Savvy Option
Think of the inverter generator as the smart thermostat of the generator world. They are the cool, calm, and collected type. These bad boys produce AC power, then convert it to DC, and then invert it back to super-clean AC power.
- Pros:
- Efficiency: Fuel efficiency is where inverters shine! They adjust the engine speed to match the power demand. Less demand = less fuel burned.
- Noise Levels: Imagine trying to sleep next to a jet engine (that’s a conventional generator). Inverters are way quieter, making them neighbor-friendly.
- Power Quality: Sensitive electronics like your furnace’s control board? Inverter generators provide a stable, clean power supply, reducing the risk of damage.
- Cons:
- Cost: They’re pricier than their conventional cousins. You pay for that fancy tech.
- Power Output: For running two furnaces, you’ll need to make sure the inverter generator is up to the task. Smaller inverter models might struggle.
Conventional Generator: The Rugged, Reliable Workhorse
The conventional generator is your classic, no-frills option. Like that old pickup truck that just keeps going. They produce AC power directly from the engine, and what you get is basically raw power!
- Pros:
- Cost: Generally more affordable than inverter generators.
- Power Output: Often available in higher wattage models, making them better suited for running multiple appliances (like those two furnaces).
- Simple Design: Easier to maintain and repair (usually).
- Cons:
- Efficiency: They run at a constant speed, regardless of the load, meaning they guzzle fuel, even when you don’t need all that power.
- Noise Levels: They’re loud and proud. Your neighbors might not appreciate the serenade.
- Power Quality: Can produce voltage fluctuations, which could potentially damage sensitive furnace components.
The Heart of the Machine: Engine (Generator) and Alternator Deep Dive
Okay, let’s get a bit geeky about the engine and the alternator. These are the unsung heroes of any generator.
Engine (Generator): The Power Plant
The engine is the heart of the generator. It’s what burns fuel and creates the mechanical energy that the alternator turns into electricity.
- Maintenance is Key:
- Oil Changes: Regular oil changes are vital! Dirty oil can destroy an engine faster than you can say “power outage.”
- Air Filter Cleaning: A clean air filter ensures the engine breathes properly. Dirty filters restrict airflow and reduce efficiency.
- Spark Plug Replacement: Spark plugs ignite the fuel-air mixture. Replace them regularly for optimal engine performance.
Note: neglecting engine maintenance is like not brushing your teeth: It WILL catch up with you eventually.
Alternator: The Electricity Factory
The alternator is what transforms the engine’s mechanical energy into usable electricity. A high-quality alternator is crucial for consistent and reliable power.
- Importance of Quality: A cheap alternator might produce unstable voltage, which can damage your furnaces. A good alternator delivers a smooth, consistent power supply.
- Look for generators with alternators designed for inductive loads. Furnaces have motors, which are inductive loads and require robust alternators.
Matching Outlets: No Plug, No Heat!
Okay, picture this: You’ve braved the snow, wrestled the generator out of the shed, and you’re ready to fire up those furnaces. But wait! The furnace plug looks at the generator outlet like, “You’re not from around here, are ya?” Bummer. Making sure your generator has the correct outlets/receptacles to match your furnace plugs is absolutely crucial. It’s like having the right key for the lock – without it, you’re stuck in the cold.
Think of it like this: a standard household outlet (120V) might not cut it if your furnace needs a different configuration, such as a 240V outlet. So, check those furnace specs and then double-check your generator’s outlet situation. If you find yourself in a mismatch, don’t despair! Adapters can be your best friend. Just be sure they’re heavy-duty and rated for the amperage you’ll be drawing.
Fuel Tank Size Matters: How Long Can You Stay Warm?
Let’s be real, nobody wants to trudge out into a blizzard at 3 AM to refuel a generator. This is where fuel tank capacity becomes a super important factor. The bigger the tank, the longer your runtime – plain and simple. But here’s the catch: “bigger” isn’t always better if you don’t need it.
To figure out how long your generator will keep the furnaces purring, you’ll need to do some quick math. First, find out the fuel consumption rate of your generator (it’s usually measured in gallons per hour). Then, estimate how much fuel each furnace will guzzle. It will take a little experiment of trial and error and observation. Now, divide the tank capacity by the combined fuel consumption. Boom! You’ve got a rough estimate of your runtime. Remember that this is just an estimation because you won’t be able to get the exact number. To be more accurate, it is better to round down.
Pro Tip: Always overestimate your fuel needs. A few extra gallons on hand can save you a lot of grief (and frostbite).
Starting Mechanisms: To Pull or Push? That is the Question!
Now, let’s talk about getting this beast started. Generators typically come with two starting mechanism options: electric start and recoil start (the good old pull-cord). Electric start is undeniably convenient – just push a button and voila, you’re in business. Recoil start, on the other hand, requires a bit of muscle and a prayer.
In most cases, Cold weather starting is especially important when you are in a place where it snows. In this kind of condition an electric start is the better option because with a push of a button, it just starts right away. Because of the extreme weather condition sometimes the recoil needs more effort.
For cold weather, electric start is the clear winner. Trying to yank a frozen recoil cord in sub-zero temperatures is no fun. Plus, electric start models often have features like automatic choke that make cold starts easier. If you live in a place where winters are brutal, fork over the extra dough for the electric start. You’ll thank yourself later.
Safe Connection and Operation: Don’t Be a Sparky – Keep Your Power (and Yourself!) Safe
Okay, so you’ve got your generator picked out, ready to wrestle winter into submission. Awesome! But hold your horses (or extension cords, in this case). How you connect and operate that beast is just as crucial as the generator itself. We’re talking about keeping you, your family, and even those brave utility workers safe and sound. Let’s dive in, shall we?
The Transfer Switch: Your Backfeeding Bouncer
Imagine your generator happily pumping power back into the grid when the lines are down. Sounds helpful, right? WRONG! This is called backfeeding, and it’s a major no-no. Not only could it fry your generator when the power comes back on, but it could seriously injure or even kill utility workers trying to restore power. Scary stuff.
Enter the Transfer Switch. Think of it as a bouncer for your electrical system, carefully controlling where the power flows. It completely isolates your home circuits from the utility lines when you’re running on generator power, preventing any accidental backfeeding. You can choose between manual (flip a switch yourself) or automatic (it does it for you when the power goes out) transfer switches. Seriously, don’t skip this step. It’s the electrical equivalent of wearing a seatbelt.
Cords That Don’t Cut It: Extension Cord Safety 101
Alright, picture this: you’re using a flimsy extension cord that’s thinner than a noodle to power your furnace. The cord gets hot, melts a bit, and… well, let’s not go there. That’s why you need heavy-duty extension cords!
Think of them as the garden hose for your electricity – you want a wide, sturdy hose to deliver enough water (or power!) without any kinks or leaks. Here’s the rundown:
- Gauge Matters: The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire (e.g., 10-gauge is beefier than 16-gauge). Thicker is better for high-wattage appliances like furnaces.
- Length Affects Performance: Long cords reduce voltage. If you need a long run, go for an even heavier gauge.
- Avoid Overloading: Don’t daisy-chain cords together. It’s a fire hazard waiting to happen.
- Trip Hazards: Keep cords out of walkways to prevent stumbles and falls.
Grounding: Keepin’ It Earthy (and Safe!)
Grounding might sound boring, but it’s your electrical system’s way of saying, “Hey, I’m not going to shock you!”. It provides a safe path for stray electricity to flow to the ground, preventing you from becoming part of the circuit (and that’s not a fun experience).
Make sure your generator frame is properly grounded according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use grounded extension cords (the ones with three prongs) to maintain that safe connection all the way to your furnaces.
Ventilation: Don’t Let the Invisible Killer Get You
Here’s the deal: generators produce Carbon Monoxide (CO), an odorless, colorless gas that’s a silent killer. Operating a generator indoors or in an enclosed space is like playing Russian roulette with your life.
NEVER, and I mean NEVER, run a generator inside your home, garage, basement, or any other area where CO can build up. Always operate it outdoors in a well-ventilated area, away from windows, doors, and vents. Think fresh air, and lots of it!
- Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Install working CO detectors on every level of your home, especially near sleeping areas. Check the batteries regularly!
- Symptoms of CO Poisoning: Headache, dizziness, nausea, weakness, confusion… These are all signs of CO poisoning. If you experience any of these symptoms, get to fresh air immediately and call for help.
Regulatory Compliance and Safety Certifications: Play by the Rules, Stay Safe, and Keep the Lights On!
Okay, so you’ve figured out the wattage, picked your generator type, and you’re ready to roll, right? Hold your horses! Before you plug anything in, let’s talk about something slightly less exciting but absolutely crucial: making sure you’re not breaking any rules and that your equipment is safe. Think of it as the spinach of generator ownership – not the tastiest, but makes you strong!
Local Electrical Codes: Don’t Be a Maverick, Get a Permit!
First up: Local Electrical Codes. Every municipality has its own set of rules about what you can and can’t do with electricity, and hooking up a generator often falls under their watchful eye. Ignoring these codes is like showing up to a fancy dinner in your pajamas—you can do it, but you probably shouldn’t!
Why bother with permits and inspections? Well, they’re there to ensure your setup is safe. A qualified inspector can spot potential hazards you might miss, like improper grounding or wiring issues that could lead to a fire or electrocution. Plus, nobody wants a surprise visit from the code enforcement officer with a hefty fine! Think of it as preventative medicine for your electrical system and your wallet.
UL Listing: Your Seal of Approval
Next, let’s talk about UL Listing. You’ll often see this little stamp on electrical appliances, and for good reason. UL (Underwriters Laboratories) is an independent organization that tests products to ensure they meet certain safety standards. If a generator has a UL Listing, it means it’s been put through the wringer and has passed rigorous tests for things like electrical safety, fire hazards, and overall performance.
Think of it like a gold star for your generator. It doesn’t guarantee it will never have problems, but it does give you peace of mind knowing it’s been vetted by a reputable third party. When shopping for a generator, always look for the UL Listing to ensure you’re buying a safe and reliable product. It’s an important factor of generator safety.
Brand and Model Recommendations: Your Generator Dream Team
Okay, so you’ve crunched the numbers, you know your wattage, and you’re ready to dive into the wild world of generator brands. It’s like picking a superhero team – you want the best of the best to keep your furnaces humming when the grid goes down! Let’s meet some of the big names in the generator game.
Think of Generac as the Iron Man of generators – reliable, powerful, and always innovating. Then there’s Honda, the Captain America – known for its rock-solid dependability and longevity. Yamaha is like the Black Panther of generators – sleek, efficient, and boasting top-notch technology. Don’t forget Champion, the Spider-Man of the group – offering great value and surprising power for the price. Westinghouse is the Hulk, big and strong. Finally, Briggs & Stratton are like Thor in this scenario, reliable and strong. These are some of the big hitters when it comes to portable power, and they’ve earned their reputations for a reason.
But, just like superheroes, not all generators are created equal. It’s crucial to do your homework! Start by hitting up the manufacturer’s websites, read the user manuals and compare product spec pages, and then dive into those customer reviews. It’s like getting the inside scoop from people who’ve actually used the generator in the field, battling their own power outages.
Consider your specific needs – what’s more important to you, fuel efficiency, low noise, or maximum power? Pay close attention to the warranty coverage – a solid warranty is like having a safety net in case things go wrong. Also, think about where you are going to be storing the generator. Also think about the maintenance and the parts access when choosing a brand and model. It’s a little bit of research that can save you a whole lot of headaches (and shivers) down the road.
Operational Considerations: Fuel Costs, Maintenance, and Runtime
Okay, so you’ve found the perfect generator to keep your furnaces humming through the next polar vortex. Now, let’s talk about the not-so-glamorous side of things: keeping that beast fed and happy. We’re diving into fuel costs, maintenance, and making sure you don’t run out of juice in the middle of the night (because nobody wants that).
Fuel Costs: More Than Just a Trip to the Gas Station
Let’s face it, running a generator isn’t free. Fuel costs can sneak up on you, especially if you’re dealing with an extended outage. Gasoline prices jump around more than a toddler on a sugar rush, so keep an eye on the market. Also, different fuel types – gasoline, propane, diesel – have different costs per gallon (or equivalent) and burn rates. A little research here can save you some serious coin. Consider this:
- Gasoline is readily available, but can be the priciest per BTU and goes bad if left sitting for extended periods.
- Propane can be cheaper in some areas and stores well, but requires a specialized tank.
- Diesel often offers better fuel economy than gasoline, but diesel generators tend to be more expensive upfront.
Pro Tip: Don’t forget to factor in the cost of fuel stabilizer if you are using gasoline, especially if you’re not planning on using all the fuel right away! It is an important thing to consider.
Maintenance: A Little Love Goes a Long Way
Think of your generator like your car – ignore the maintenance, and it will leave you stranded. Regular upkeep isn’t just about keeping it running; it’s about keeping it running safely and extending its lifespan. This means:
- Oil Changes: Follow the manufacturer’s recommended schedule religiously. Dirty oil is a generator’s worst enemy.
- Filter Replacements: Air filters and fuel filters keep the engine breathing clean. Clogged filters reduce performance and can cause damage.
- Spark Plug Maintenance: A fouled or worn spark plug can make starting difficult or cause the engine to run poorly. Replace as needed.
Basically, a little TLC now can save you a lot of headaches (and expensive repairs) later. Keep a maintenance log, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines, and don’t be afraid to get your hands a little dirty!
Runtime: How Long Will It Keep the Lights On?
Okay, this is where the rubber meets the road. You need to know how long your generator will run on a tank of fuel. This depends on a few things:
- Fuel Type: Each fuel type has a different energy density.
- Fuel Tank Capacity: Bigger tank, longer runtime – pretty straightforward.
- Load: This is the total wattage your furnaces (and anything else you’re running) are drawing. The higher the load, the faster you’ll burn through fuel.
Here’s the basic formula:
Runtime (hours) = (Fuel Tank Capacity (gallons) x BTU per Gallon) / Total Wattage (BTU)
You can usually find the BTU per gallon for different fuel types online. Remember, this is an estimate. Real-world conditions can affect runtime. It’s always a good idea to overestimate your runtime needs, just in case. Nobody wants to be caught short in the middle of a blizzard!
So, there you have it! Finding a portable generator that can handle two furnaces might seem like a tall order, but with a little research, you can keep your home warm and cozy even when the power grid decides to take a break. Stay warm out there!
